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Route Kuker - Keld - Muker County Yorkshire Difficulty Moderate Distance 8km (5 miles) Typical time Three hours OS grid reference: SD905975, Explorer OL 30 Starting point Drive through Muker and park in the layby opposite the village school

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Blister rating: 2/5

View rating: 3/5

Why I love this walk

For me, this walk belongs in the Goldilocks category because it is “just right” in so many ways. First, it begins and ends in the Swaledale village of Muker, which is called “idyllic” for a reason.

The walk is not too hard or easy, too long or short, too high or low. If you follow the trail it is just over five miles and can be done in under three hours, but there are options along the way to make it longer: for instance, we left the main track for a vertiginous path up and then back through Swinner Gill, a waist-high-fern-laden detour that took more than an hour but was well worth it.

We rejoined the main walk at Crackpot Hall, a farmhouse dating from the 1700s whose ruins have a view to take your breath away — if you still have any breath left. The path drops again to the River Swale (there is a resting site by a waterfall) before climbing again, through woods, to North Gang Scar which seems very close to heaven.

The only downside is that it’s popular and so there will be other people around — though this can be countered by taking an optional path.

The route

1 Park in the lay-by opposite the school and walk back to Muker.

2 At the first Y-junction, turn left and follow the road up the hill to Muker itself.

3 Walk to top of the hill, branch right towards the right of the far terrace.

4 Pass through the squeeze-stile and follow the clear path along the slabs, across the fields towards the river. There are a few stiles to pass, but no crossing paths.

5 On reaching the river, turn right and cross via the footbridge. Follow the path up the opposite bank to reach another fingerpost.

6 At the top of these steps turn left and follow the clear bridleway along this side of the dale. The path becomes increasingly steep, before dropping down to a footbridge by a waterfall at Swinner Gill. The path then climbs steeply, providing spectacular views.

7 Pass a small cottage on your left. The path turns sharply to the left, then drops towards Keld.

8 Follow the path down to another waterfall, cross a footbridge. Watch for the next junction in the path.

9 Turn left here, walk down by the trees and cross a footbridge over the Swale. Bear right through a gate and walk up a steep path.

10 Turn left at the top to follow the Pennine Way signs as the path climbs.

11 At the fingerpost keep right (straight ahead) beneath a cliff on your right.

12 At the next fingerpost bear right, following the clear path and the Pennine Way signs.

13 Follow the wide grassy track along the edge of North Gang Scar to reach a T-junction of paths.

14 Bear left along a walled track as it zig-zags back down into Muker. Retrace your steps through Muker to reach your start point.

Source: www.walkingworld.com

Contributor: Jude Howat. Walk No 1057

Things to see

Idyllic Dales scenery of waterfalls, villages, stone walls and steep valleys

Pub rating: 3/5

Pub:The Farmers Arms, Muker

A remote traditional Dales pub with an open fire, a selection of real ales to delight visiting walkers and basic bar food

Where to stay

A Corner of Eden
A small B&B in a Grade-II listed farmhouse 20 or so miles from Kendal. There is fishing, riding and kayaking nearby.

Natural Retreats
A secluded collection of eco bungalows close to Richmond. They use 100 per cent renewable energy, woodchip boilers and natural spring water for drinking and showers.

Millgate House
A charming B&B with an award-winning garden, on the market place in the centre of Richmond

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