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For many years I had yearned to tackle one of Jersey’s most spectacular hikes — the up-and-down coast path of the island’s southwestern rock. Its bays and headlands, the richness of its wildlife, the towers and fortifications, make it a tiny but tight-packed box of delights for walkers.

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You have to keep an eye on the tide when you’re walking the outer coves of St Aubin’s Bay. Out in the bay, islets of rock held the outlines of St Aubin’s Fort and Elizabeth Castle, reminders of Jersey’s situation in history as a valuable plum at the centre of English Channel trade and defence routes — a prize that the French, in particular, had many times tried and failed to win.

The pink granite Church of St Brelade looks out across St Brelade’s bay from the western side, flanked by the ark-like Chapelle ès Pêcheurs, the Fishermen’s Chapel.

Beyond St Brelade and the magnificent beach of Beauport, something weird happens to the coast path. Waymarks give enigmatic suggestions, and the path turns shy and self-effacing. Out at sea, at the tip of a rocky and rugged promontory, rose the lighthouse of La Corbière. The causeway to it, drowned each high tide, gleamed like an enchanted road.

Start & finish North pier of St Aubin harbour (606489)

Walk (11km, 7 miles; moderate grade, OS 1:25,000 Official Leisure map of Jersey) First section of walk, from Royal Channel Islands Yacht Club to Manoir de Noir Mont, is impassable at very high tides; set off one hour after high tide. From north pier of St Aubin harbour (606489), turn south along harbour.

Descend steps by Royal Channel Islands Yacht Club (607486). Walk round Le Vaû Varin and Le Vaû ès Fontaines bays to climb ramp below Manoir de Noirmont in Belcroute bay (607477). Pass manoir, to B57 road (Route de Noirmont); left;

in 15m left again (yellow top post - 604476). Bear right at fork in path, through trees, heading generally south, to Noirmont headland car park (607466). Follow road inland for 200m; left along path around headlands to Old Portelet pub (603472). Follow road past pub car park; ahead past St Meloir house on tarmac road. In 100m, right to T-junction (601475). Left past Portelet Nature Reserve sign on to Portelet Common.

All paths lead to cliffs, where you bear right to La Cotte headland and battery house (593475). Just beyond, turn left steeply down to beach. Cross St Brelade’s Bay to ramp up to St Brelade’s Church (582484). Left along lane. In 200m, right up steps to cross gorsey headland of Les Creux. In ten minutes you pass a stone with green arrows on both sides; keep ahead (right) to cross a tarmac road.

Continue across road to reach path by “La Moye/St Brelade” stone sign (575481). Ahead to T-junction by house No. 68 (572481); right up Rue de la Pointe to T-junction; left to B83 road (569483).

Left for 150 yards; right along field lane for 400m to T-junction. Right for 50m to meet railway path (566483); left to B83 at La Corbière (555481); out to lighthouse (507479). Return to bus stop at former railway station (555481). Bus 12 or 55 back to St Aubin.

More information Jersey Tourism (01534 500700; www.jersey.com).

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