Explore the best Times Walks from short strolls to rural rambles

Interactive map of the UK's greatest walks and the best pubs, hotels and B&Bs

A blackbird was singing on the wall of Portesham House, where stone lions guarded the porch. Thomas Masterman Hardy, who lived here as a young boy in 1778, was destined for fame as a much-loved sailor and man of action. Horatio Nelson’s close friend and trusted Flag Captain died loaded with honours in September 1839.

In that month his namesake, the future novelist and poet Thomas Hardy, became the tiniest of twinkles in his mother’s eye at Higher Bockhampton, a few miles to the east. It’s not the great writer who is commemorated by the tall stone Hardy’s Monument on the downs, but the fighting admiral from little Portesham village.

Times Walks: the 100 best walks in the UK

Find your favourite ramble, print it out, pack your rucksack, and head out into the countryside or city

• Times Walks: Portesham and Hardy’s Monument, Dorset

Related Internet Links

• The best walks in the British Isles

The 12 best pubs in England and Wales

Alastair Sawday praises the determined and imaginative owners in his choice

• London's 10 best pubs

Related Internet Links

• Walk London: 27 walks in the capital

Near the path to Hardy’s Monument crouches the Hell Stone, a Neolithic tomb whose nine massive stone legs support a capstone of flint-studded conglomerate. The Devil, playing a game of quoits, hurled the Hell Stone here from the Isle of Portland ten miles away, so legend says.

Up in a cold wind by the monument, Jane and I savoured that fabulous tale along with an equally fabulous burger of local beef, cooked and served with a relish of friendly banter by the pony-tailed man in the Hobo Catering van. Hobo the Canadian Inuit dog (who lends her name to the admirable fast-food business run by her master) followed every mouthful with the soulful gaze of true cupboard love.

The views over Dorset are sensational.

Even more stunning is the prospect from the steep ridge above Waddon House, where we paused on the way back to Portesham. Downs and farmlands, the shingle bar of Chesil Beach, St Catherine’s Chapel on its knoll of strip lynchets, the Devil’s quoits pitch of Portland lying like the Gibraltar of Wessex on a bay of molten silver — if any view could entice an adventurous lad to sea, it would be this.

Start & finish King’s Arms, Portesham, Dorset DT3 4ET (OS ref SY 603857) Getting there Train (thetrainline.com) to Upwey (6 miles); bus service 61 from Dorchester (surelinebuses.co.uk); road — Portesham signed off A35 Dorchester-Bridport at Winterbourne Abbas Walk (7½ miles, moderate grade, OS Explorer OL15): From King’s Arms, cross street; up Church Lane; right up Back Street; left opposite Manor Close (602860). Follow “Portesham Withy Beds, White Hill, Abbotsbury Round Walk/ARW” signs/waymark arrows.

Pass withy beds; through gate at end of trees (592860). Sharp right up steep bank; follow fence (fingerpost, ARW) for a third of a mile. Right over stile (592865) by “South Dorset Ridgeway, Hardy’s Monument/HM” marker stone. Follow “Inland Coast Path/ICP” for two thirds of a mile to road (601869). Left (great care!) for 30 yd; right (HM fingerpost) down fence for two fields. Detour right (605869; “Hell Stone only”) over stone stile to Hell Stone (605867); return to path; follow ICP through wood to Hardy’s Monument (613876).

Cross road; follow ICP to recross road (616877; “ICP, Jubilee Trail/JT”). In a third of a mile (620874), right off ICP, following JT for 1¼ miles past Bench farm ruins (624864) to road (630857). Right; in 100 yd, right (“Portesham”); in 200 yd, right over stile (yellow arrow/YA). Diagonally right to ridge top; follow fence (stiles, YAs) for 1 mile. Through gate by Portesham Farm (612861); left down drive; right along lane into Portesham.

Online map, more walks christophersomerville.co.uk

Lunch Hobo catering van at Hardy’s Monument; King’s Arms, Portesham (01305 871342; kingsarmsportesham.com B&B available)

More info Dorchester TIC (01305 267992) westdorset.com; ramblers.org.uk