Adam Raphael
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Warming your toes by a blazing wood fire in a baronial hall is worth a detour, or indeed a beeline, on a cold day. Many stately homes now welcome well-heeled visitors. The lifestyle, even for the most determined nonaristocrat, has much in its favour. Elegant rooms, large grounds, delicious food and an absence of piped music make the following 10 places, all managed by their owners, excellent for a crisp spring break. Not cheap, but fair value, particularly in low season. Adam Raphael, co-editor of The Good Hotel Guide, reveals his stately hot list.
- Unless otherwise stated, prices are for double rooms and include dinner and breakfast
1 CASHEL HOUSE
Co Galway, Ireland
Run by the McEvilly family — Kay, Dermot, Frank and Lucy — in wild Connemara country, this 19th-century manor house is in 50-acre grounds with a private beach. It’s a civilised place, with antiques and fresh flowers in the lounge and library. Kay manages front of house and Dermot oversees the kitchen. The Cleggan mussels with chilli garlic are memorable. So is the sea bream. General de Gaulle was so taken with the hotel that he stayed here for two weeks in 1969, the year after it opened. (00 353 95 31001, www.cashel-house-hotel.com; from £129, B&B)
2 STOCK HILL HOUSE
Gillingham, Dorset
In 11-acre grounds, with trees, terraced lawns, a stream and a small lake, this small Victorian hotel has a splendidly formal lounge and a cosy snug. The spacious bedrooms are full of antiques and curios. In the elegant dining room, the excellent cooking reflects the Austrian heritage of the owner, Peter Hauser (he can sometimes be persuaded to play his zither). His desserts are delicious — try the Malakoff torte with berry juice. Men are asked to wear a tie at dinner, but the atmosphere is relaxed and guests often talk across the tables. (01747 823626, www.stockhillhouse.co.uk; from £250)
3 GRAVETYE MANOR
East Grinstead, West Sussex
A creeper-clad Elizabethan manor house, Gravetye is now a classic country-house hotel, full of antiques and with that pleasant aroma of polish and potpourri. A walk around its beautiful lake and the large garden is recommended to get up an appetite for the Michelin-starred cooking of Mark Raffan, the co-owner. His specialities include fillet of beef with aubergine, red pepper and plum tomatoes. The hotel has flourished under its new owners, with the help of an enthusiastic young brigade. Children are welcome. (01342 810567, www.gravetyemanor.co.uk; from £165, room-only)
4 FARLAM HALL
Brampton, Cumbria
Run since 1975 by the Quinion and Stevenson families, this 16th-century manorial house, approached via a suitably grand drive, stands in 10-acre grounds with an immaculate landscaped garden, a large ornamental lake, tall trees, a stream and a paddock. Despite the ornate public rooms, the atmosphere is friendly and relaxed. Drinks are served in the lounges — there is no bar. Bedrooms are traditionally furnished and priced according to their size; the most expensive ones include a whirlpool bath. Plain but delicious country-house cooking. (01697 746234, www.farlamhall.co.uk; from £275)
5 KINNAIRD ESTATE
Perthshire, Scotland
A chambermaid brings tea on a tray to the bedroom in the morning at this former dower house of Blair Castle. Sumptuously furnished, it has family portraits, antiques and a billiards room. Most of the bedrooms are large, with a fine view of the valley. There is formal dining in the elegant frescoed restaurant, which uses many home-produced ingredients. The house stands in woodland, part of a 7,000acre estate through which runs the River Tay. The owner, Constance Ward, is American, as are many of the guests. Health and beauty treatments are on hand for those who want to be pampered. Others can try their hand at shooting, fishing, walking and bird-watching, though perhaps not all at the same time. (01796 482440, www.kinnairdestate.com; from £275)
6 GILPIN LODGE
Near Windermere, Cumbria
Afternoon teas are a work of art at John and Christine Cunliffe’s Lakeland house. Surrounded by moor and woodland, it stands in 20-acre grounds, set well back from the road. The style is informal (no reception area or bar). Modern British dishes (the head chef, Chris Meredith, has a Michelin star) are served in four dining rooms. Each bedroom is named after a local beauty spot. Suites have a private garden with hot tub; some have four-posters, some whirlpool baths. A serious breakfast menu includes strawberry sorbet with pink champagne and lots of cooked dishes. A bonus for guests is that the Cunliffes do not go in for weddings or conferences. (015394 88818, www.gilpinlodge.co.uk; from £230)
7 MAES-Y-NEUADD
Talsarnau, Gwynedd, Wales
Maes-Y-Neuadd, the “mansion in a meadow”, stands in 80-acre grounds on a wooded hillside near Harlech, with splendid views of Snowdonia and Cardigan Bay. Inside, you’ll find oak beams, good antique and modern furniture, an inglenook fireplace and canaries in the sitting room. Dinners include fresh, home-grown organic vegetables. Breakfasts are outstanding. (01766 780200, www.neuadd.com; from £160)
8 KINLOCH HOUSE
Blairgowrie, Scotland
A 19th-century Scottish pile, Kinloch, has the feel, complete with pastoral views, of an elegant country house. With oak-panelled hall, objets d’art, a portrait gallery, ornate glass ceilings and log fires, it stands on a sloping hillside facing a wide valley in 25-acre grounds. There is a delightful Victorian walled garden. The capable Allen family, who own and run Kinloch House, are supported by well-trained staff. The food is excellent under the direction of the chef, Andrew May. Try his Arbroath smokie soufflé. The extensive wine list has a selection of good house wines, but one is tempted to splash out on an expensive bottle. This, after all, is the grand life. (Men are asked to wear a jacket at dinner.)
One bedroom has a four-poster. The health centre has a 35ft swimming pool and a sauna, perfect for getting in training for the next meal. (01250 884237, www.kinlochhouse.com; from £260)
9 BALLYVOLANE HOUSE
Castlelyons, Fermoy, Co Cork, Ireland
Justin and Jenny Green, with their children Jamie and Toby, run their Georgian house as a “family heritage home”. Six bedrooms are in the main house. Five garden retreats (with wood-burning stoves) should be available later this year. Guests are encouraged to eat communally around the main table. Copious breakfasts are served until noon. There are three trout lakes in the 80-acre grounds, with six miles of fishing on the River Blackwater. (00 353 25 36349, www.ballyvolanehouse.ie; from £129, B&B)
10 HAMBLETON HALL
Hambleton, Rutland
On a peninsula jutting into Rutland Water, this splendid Victorian mansion has built up a deserved reputation for casual elegance over the past 25 years. Its classic interiors feature fine fabrics, antiques and good paintings. It has a pool and 17-acre grounds for the energetic. It is worth treating yourself to one of the best bedrooms, facing the lake. Staff are friendly: bags are whisked to rooms and cars parked. Then there’s the Michelin-starred modern cooking of Aaron Patterson — go for roast breast of pigeon with foie gras ravioli and madeira sauce. (01572 756991, www.hambletonhall.com; from £195, B&B)
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