This pretty hotel still feels like a Georgian private house in parts – behind one door there’s even a chart showing the heights of the Hodgkin family children who grew up here in the 19th century.

The building dates back to the 1520s, but it’s the Georgian period that most notably left its mark. Ceiling coving, fireplaces, sash windows, dado rails, elegant chandeliers and polished wooden floors are some of the treats. The staff’s uniforms even hark back to days of old – butlers and waiters in sharp black suits and the women wearing starchy shirts and skirts.

The lobby didn’t feel like a hotel – a couple of polished tables and fresh flowers in a roomy hall with a small desk at the far end, next to the wide sweeping staircase.

The check-in was friendly and swift and my bags followed me up to my bedroom.

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The Shelleys, Lewes, East Sussex

Georgian features are a delight and the food is even better - make sure you ask for South Down views

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The room wasn’t huge, but felt spacious thanks to the high ceiling and simply furnishing. The walls were covered with a warm beige wallpaper and adorned with antiquey prints. The overall feel was just on the right side of chintzy - duck-egg blues, floral prints and polished wood furniture - but not too much of it.

The wardrobe was big and there was an iron and ironing board but I was disappointed to see that a cup of tea would have cost me a room service charge – but at least the wireless internet access was free.

The television was small but the view much more enthralling anyway - we overlooked the pretty garden at the back and the South Downs beyond, and it was a relief to be able to throw open the sash windows to let in the fresh air.

The bathroom was unimpressive but functional – a working shower/bath combination, Penhaligon toiletries, and bathrobe, but dated décor and not a lot of shelf space.

We had lunch in the restaurant, which also overlooks the garden and boasts more grand Georgian features and a high ceiling. Pleasant surroundings aside there was a lack of atmosphere owing to the scarcity of diners – I was told it was much busier in the evenings – so conversations were kept to a discreet murmur.

The menu wasn’t bad value - £14.95 for two courses and £18.95 for three (dinner is £18.95 for two courses and £24.95 for three). We started with a chilled mint and pea soup and asparagus with poached egg and parma ham. The ingredients were fresh, the presentation pleasing and the warm bread rolls that accompanied the starters were irresistible.

The mains of trout with tomato salsa and citrus couscous and chicken breast with dauphinoise potatoes were also excellent and portions were just the right size. Service was quite slow given the number of customers, but it was courteous and responsive.

The wine list was comprehensive and started at £17.50 a bottle.

Breakfast in the same room was light, airy, but still a little stuffy and murmured with just three tables taken. The fresh fruit with yoghurt and bircher muesli were superb, and followed by a continental selection of cheese and ham. The cooked breakfast was also good – creamy scrambled eggs and more delicious fresh bread.

The hotel gets a 4/5 rating from Tripadvisor.co.uk users. Users widely praise the size of the bedrooms and the service, and most give the food a good rating, except a couple of people who complain about lack of veggie options. Others complain about the removal of free tea and coffee from the bedrooms and one guest said her room lacked a full-length mirror.

Bottom line: rooms from £170 double occupancy and £115 single occupancy including breakfast and VAT.

Best thing: the Georgian features

Worst thing: no free tea and coffee

Access all areas: the restaurant, bar and lounge on the ground floor are wheelchair accessible, but the history of the building dictates that a lift cannot be installed, so there are no wheelchair-accessible bedrooms. The hotel is hoping to build some bedrooms for disabled guests in the future.

Need to know: The Shelleys, The High Street, Lewes, East Sussex, BN7 1XS; www.the-shelleys.co.uk; reservations@the-shelleys.co.uk

Food: 9 out of 10

Service: 9 out of 10

Room: 8 out of 10

Value: 7 out of 10

Four word review: elegant Georgian village foodie

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