That's presuming you can find the place. There's no sign and it's not because Ramsay wants the hotel to be an under-the-radar joint. “It's not ready to be put up yet,” he harrumphs.

The main restaurant is big but laid-back in a very Soho House way but the downstairs dining room restaurant is poky. “It's a challenge,” Hartnett concedes. “Perhaps we'll make it women-only and get the cooks cooking naked: Colin [Buchan, the head chef] with his todger out.”

The hotel is on a busy junction and, without double glazing, the rooms at the front are very noisy. The hotel opening is late because contractors were still working on the rooms until late this week. The rush shows. Many of the bathrooms seem to be waiting for new shelves or cabinets because there's little or no space for toiletries.

Ramsay insists that the glitches will be ironed out. “We're not hoteliers. We're still learning. We know it's going to be a rough ride. We know the hotel critics will say: ‘Stick to what you know'. And then I'll get slagged off by food critics cos I'm not here every night rolling every bit of pizza dough. But we've been through all that before here, and in New York and LA and I'm still standing, strong as a f***ing ox.”

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With that, the Kevlar-plated ego on legs raises the temperature by frying a waiter who doesn't know where the beef on Monday's menu is from.

“F*** me, I'll be in the Priory by the end of the week if this goes on,” Ramsay says, before grabbing his girl Friday by the hand and disappearing into the kitchen. There are only 48 hours to go before opening and the caff 'n' gaff kids have work to do.

Need to know

York & Albany , 127-129 Parkway, London NW1 (020-7388 3344 (restaurant), 020-7387 5700 (hotel), www.gordonramsay.com/yorkandalbany ; doubles from £180 (room only).

MORE CHEF-RUN HOTELS

Le Manoir Aux Quat' Saisons, Oxfordshire

Raymond Blanc's two-Michelin star restaurant and hotel marries French cuisine with British ingredients. Great Milton, Oxfordshire; 01844 278881, www.manoir.com. Doubles from £395. Dinner extra

Gidleigh Park, Devon

Michael Caines has won two Michelin stars for his innovative modern European cuisine. Chagford, Devon; 01647 432367, www.gidleigh.com. Doubles from £480, including dinner for two and breakfast

Waterside Inn, Bray, Berkshire

Eleven elegant bedrooms mix traditional and contemporary style. Chef: Michel Roux. 01628 620691, www.waterside-inn.co.uk. Doubles from £190

L'Andana, Tuscany

Alain Ducasse has converted this hunting lodge outside Rome into a chic retreat. Tenuta la Badiola, Badiola; 00 39 0564 944800, www.andana.it. Doubles from £275

elBulli Hotel, Seville

Foamy Ferran Adrià has renovated a 10th-century farmhouse into an hotel that lives up to the same standard that won him three Michelin stars for his restaurant near Barcelona. 00 34 955 703344, www.elbullihotel.com. Doubles from £275

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