Getting to the George in Rye was tricky. After negotiating a one-way system and bashing a hubcap on the high kerb outside this small, trendy, new-ish hotel, a charming receptionist gave me directions to a distant car park. “Turn right, then right, then left, then left,” she said.

Somehow I got this right, ending up by a rather nice antique and “high-class junk” shop that required walking back up a steep, cobbled lane. I checked in, and made my way past a cosy lounge with an open fire, and along creaky corridors to my room.

This was a revelation: big, with a four-poster bed, exposed beams, stylish ceramic lamps, flat-screen TV, magazines on coffee tables, and a large comfortable sofa. The sheets were high-quality linen.

For this rather nice room (everything seems rather nice in Rye) I had paid £99 after spotting a “Madness of King George” sale on the website. My only complaint was the creaking and clumping about upstairs. My upstairs neighbours were real clumpers. I half expected to see a foot shoot through the ceiling.

Downstairs, the George, which dates from the 16th century, was even better. There’s a terrific bar with low beams, nooks and crannies and a selection of bitters. A cheerful barman recommended a pint of Harveys Sussex Best Bitter, which I enjoyed while reading a novel in a corner booth with cushions. Regulars bought each other rounds. Jazzy music played. It was just how a local should be.

Dinner was in an adjoining restaurant. Charming waitresses (everyone seems charming in Rye) took my order of a fine pumpkin soup followed by slightly tough pheasant with broccoli and new potatoes, washed down with a carafe of claret.

This hotel’s motto is a quote from Henry James, who lived round the corner in Lamb House, now a National Trust property, from 1898-1916: “Experience is never limited and it is never complete.” But it felt pretty good by the fire in the bar of the George.

The George in Rye (01797 222114, www.thegeorgeinrye.com), 98 High Street, Rye, East Sussex TN31 7JT. Mystery Guest paid £99 for a B&B double.Two courses with wine, £31.

Room 7 out of 10 Food 6.5 out of 10 Service 8 out of 10 Value 8 out of 10 (in the sale) Score 7.38

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