Despite Tony-the-train-driver’s frequent tannoy announcements wishing us a pleasant journey, it wasn’t likely. On the Friday night train out of London three peoples’ buttocks were wedged uncomfortably close to me. Tumbling out of the sardine-crush at Bath Spa station, it was going to take a great hotel to recover our mood.

The taxi pulled up at a discreet listed building in the majestic Bath Crescent area (designed by John Wood the Younger), and we were welcomed into a purple and chocolate-brown living room for a nicer version of the normal check-in – filling in a short questionnaire while sinking into comfy sofas.

It was then a short walk through manicured gardens from the front building housing lounges, reception and some bedrooms, to the back one, with the spa, bar, restaurant and further bedrooms and suites.

Ours was at the top of a dramatic winding staircase, where we discovered you don’t come to the Bath Crescent to go AWOL: each door had a hand-written nameplate identifying the incumbents.

The Royal Crescent Hotel, Bath

The grandeur may be a little faded, but the food and spa still impresses Lucy Tobin

The Macdonald Bath Spa Hotel, Sydney Road, Bath

A disappointing breakfast was more than made up for by the evening meal and spa

BACKGROUND

• Homewood Park, Hinton Charterhouse, Bath

• Lucknam Park Hotel, Colerne, Bath

• Dorian House, Bath

• The Queensberry, Bath

• Milsoms Hotel, Bath

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Our suite – the "Nelson" – had a huge lounge with a desk, two sofas, a big TV and DVD player, a large range of magazines, plus books including those by local star Jane Austen. A large set of windows and patio doors led out to a spacious balcony, with a set of garden table and chairs and a lovely view of Bath architecture.

The décor was traditional but not chintzy; in our bedroom an old-fashioned dressing table with pin cushions and poufs discreetly hid a powerful hairdryer, a neighbouring wooden cabinet opened out to reveal another TV, and there was no scrimping on wardrobe space. The bathroom was equally luxurious, with two sinks, a big bath plus powerful in-bath shower.

Aside from the suites, Tripadvisor.co.uk reviewers were less impressed by the other rooms at the hotel. Typical comments describe them as "tired" and "shabby"; a few describe having a "plug-in Argos radiator" added to their room, leading to an average 3.5/5 star review on the site.

There was no evidence of this on our stay, and none of the other guests we met during the weekend commented on it. But some of the rooms are smaller, however, so ask about room size before booking – there seem to be large discrepancies. On the whole Tripadvisor reviews praise the location and food and criticise the room sizes and price.

We liked the nice boutique hotel touches, such as board games and boules sets for the guests to use. The hotel’s stunning spa was another pleasure, although the lack of swimming pool was a shame. The pool was more like a huge hot bath, surrounded by candles, big, beer-style teak barrels, a steam room and sauna.

These were a great prequel to the spa’s signature treatment - a salt and essential oil exfoliation and hose-down that left my skin baby soft, followed by a full-body aromatherapy massage by Julie that was itself enough to yearn for a rapid return visit.

We had two meals at the hotel’s restaurant, Dower House: a long, very nouveau-cuisine dinner and a great breakfast the next morning. At dinner, our three-courses had a set price (£60) but involved plenty of choice; I went for roast duck tart, followed by beef and then chocolate fondant with passion fruit mousse; my companion opted for poached mullet and the same dessert; we both found the food faultless and enjoyed the intercourse extras too, although the fish skin served in toast racks looked a bit too gory.

Breakfast – a continental buffet followed by buckwheat pancakes and scrambled eggs – was another triumph. By the time it was over, it was time to think about checking out and going home with one of Tony-the-train-driver’s colleagues, but we truly just wanted to stay. With the perfect mix of friendly atmosphere, homely design and luxury touches, the Bath Crescent was one of the best hotels I’ve stayed in.

Bottom line: deluxe suite costs from £620 including breakfast and spa access. Classic rooms including breakfast and spa access from £195.

Best thing: the room

Worst thing: no indoor route from spa to rooms – you have to either dress, or pad around first outside, then through the bar/restaurant in a bathrobe. Not ideal.

Access all areas: there are a number of accessible ground-level rooms but some have a small step.

Need to know: The Royal Crescent Hotel, 16 Royal Crescent, Bath, BA1 2LS, tel: 01225 823333; info@royalcrescent.co.uk, www.royalcrescent.co.uk

Food: 9 out of 10

Service: 9 out of 10

Room: 10 out of 10

Value: 6 out of 10

Four word review: architectural design, atmospheric spa

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