With an imposing entrance steps away from the Thames, Covent Garden, and in the heart of theatreland, the Edwardian One Aldwych hotel building has to fight to become an attraction in its own right. But as I arrived after a hot and sticky commute on the Tube in rush hour, the lobby was appealingly light and airy, and the hotel immediately appealed.

I was greeted by an imposing stone buddah-like statue dominating the lobby’s bar, and enormous vases of flowers giving off a spring scent.

At a quick and friendly check-in desk, I signed forms for long enough to overhear evidence of the concierge’s obvious talent at nabbing tickets to sold-out theatre shows. I was soon whizzing up to the fourth floor, in a lift full of some of the many Americans I was to meet staying at the hotel, and discovered a spacious room with a fantastic view of the busy Strand streetscape, with Waterloo Bridge and the Thames jostling for attention in the background.

Even the surprisingly diverting game of ‘count the unbelievable number of London buses’ couldn’t keep me away from exploring my suite for too long. There were two rectangular beige sofas, designer-looking goldfish bowls filled with winding lillies and purple glass pebbles, two Bang & Olufsen TVs with an in-built supply of hundreds of music tracks, a well-stocked mini bar, and a big, soft and inviting bed.

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Modernist paintings adorned the wall, and there were boutique touches like copies of the idealistic Change the World 9 to 5 book on the bedside tables. Fresh, free fruit included plentiful oranges, tangerines and apples, and mineral water was also made available on the house.

In the bathroom, a tiny TV on a bendy arm could be watched from the bath or the loo, there was a bath as well as a stand-alone power shower, and the natural smells of the Ren toiletries were a nice twist from the ubiquitous stash of Molton Brown. Changing into the hotel’s cosy bathrobes, I took the lift directly down to its basement pool, gym and spa.

Although I steered clear of the gym, the 18-metre pool – which once held the printing press of the Morning Post newspaper that used to occupy the building - allowed a few more strokes than most other central London pools.

The gimicky underwater music, however, could barely be heard. The sauna and steam room were small but enjoyable. The spa also offers a range of therapies, and my NaturaBisse facial in a womb-like treatment room was effective and extremely professional, although expensive at £90 an hour.

After a further relaxing soak in the room’s deep bath, I was joined by my partner at the hotel’s restaurant, Axis. The rather hidden-away location was perhaps the main reason it wasn’t busy, because despite the designer-style décor we were pleasantly surprised by the reasonably-priced, delicious food.

Starters of Jerusalem artichoke soup (£6) and smoked salmon (£12) slipped down a treat. Crispy roast chicken with lots of veg accompaniments (£16) and a perfectly-cooked steak (£22) impressed.

The standard stayed high at breakfast time, in the less formal Indigo restaurant. No breakfast buffet option, but the quality of the a la carte made up for any lack of choice.

My Bircher muesli (£6.50) was second only to a portion served at Darina Allen’s famous restaurant at Ballymaloe House in Ireland, while my partner’s cooked English (£22) disappeared from his plate with equal relish.

The reviewers on Tripadvisor.co.uk, who gave the hotel an overall average score of 4.5/5, praised the hotel for its location, staff, style and “classiness” but a few complained about the price, and some said rooms were noisy.

Bottom line: doubles from £215 including breakfast, up to £770 for a deluxe suite, but check the website for the latest offers.

Best thing: the breakfast

Worst thing: having to leave.

Access all areas: six accessible rooms available, with wider corridors, assistance rails and ramps.

Need to know: One Aldwych, London, WC2B 4RH; 020 7300 1000; reservations@onealdwych.com; www.onealdwych.com

Food: dinner 8 out of 10, breakfast 9 out of 10

Service: 9 out of 10

Room: 9 out of 10

Value: 7 out of 10

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