Sweeping through ornate gates, with an 18 hole championship golf course to the left of us and woodland to the right, a herd of deer ran across our path. You don’t see that on the way to the Travelodge.

We were on our way to the 43-bedroom Bowood Hotel, the baby of the 9th Marquess and Marchioness of Lansdowne, whose home is 18th century stately Bowood House, a mile away across the vast estate.

Newly built, with interiors designed by Lady Lansdowne, the hotel opened at the end of May – and the first signature in the visitors’ book was Camilla - HRH The Duchess of Cornwall.

It’s very smart – the bar and restaurant look like they’ve been transplanted from a five-star in Mayfair and don't even think about calling the guests' morning room the lounge – but its not over-formal thanks to the friendly, smiley staff.

Our room overlooked the golf course – there were those deer again, running riot – and was just how I like it: big, airy and understatedly elegant, with nary a hint of country house chintz. Really comfortable bed, good lighting, no fiddly switches or controls, proper coat hangers in the wardrobe, and, best of all, windows that actually opened.

A flat screen TV and iPod docking station supplied the 21st century necessaries and we made short work of the tea and biscuits.

With two rather rumbustious children in tow I couldn’t have dinner in the main Shelburne restaurant (children are only allowed in for breakfast and lunch) but we enjoyed eating in the golf club brasserie next door with its trestle tables, flagstone floor and stripy blinds.

My son and I went for the cook it yourself option: “SteakStone” fillet steaks which were served on a sizzling stone accompanied by béarnaise sauce, garlic butter, creamed horseradish and hand-cut chips (15.95). They were toothsome, as was my daughter’s sesame stir fried chicken with vegetables and herb noodles (£8.95). Sticky toffee pudding with caramel sauce (£4.50) and pannacotta with mixed berries (£6.95) were also wolfed down.

Next morning, after top eggs Benedict for me and porridge and pastries for the nippers, we zipped over in a golf buggy to Bowood House and its gardens – hotel guests get free entry to both, as well as a round of golf.

The house is stunning and full of unexpected treasures such as Napoleon’s death mask, and the lab where Joseph Priestley discovered oxygen, but as far as the children were concerned it was no competition for Bowood’s famous adventure playground where there’s a full size pirate galleon (complete with rigging and a crow’s nest), high-up walkways and the Space Dive, aka the death slide, a vertical drop slide which is a modern version of a Victorian invention.

It starts with a shocking 19- foot vertical drop which then levels out for a fast and slippery slide and is definitely not for wusses.

Rain stopped further exploration of the gardens with their rhododendrons, arboretum and orangery and we headed back to the hotel spa pool (which has limited opening hours for children). There’s also a rock sauna, crystal steam room, aromatherapy showers and a gym. But for the moment if you want treatments they have to be taken in your room.

It’s so new, only seven Tripadvisor users have rated the hotel, giving it an average 4.5/5. Most reviewers were making use of the hotel's golf facilities, which get widespread praise, although service, food and cleanliness are also lauded.

Need to know: Bowood Hotel & Spa Derry Hill, Calne, Wiltshire SN11 9RG; tel: 01249 822 228, www.bowood.org.

Bottom line: Double rooms from £190 B&B. Special offer on Sunday nights of £99pp dinner, bed and breakfast, based on two sharing.

Access all areas: Bathrooms that have grab rails are in two bedrooms, with a hearing loop and emergency assistance cords. Vibrating pillows on request.

Best thing: Friendly staff and the sticky toffee pudding

Worst thing: Somewhat stark hotel exterior – needs some softening foliage

Food: 9

Service: 9

Room: 9

Value: 9

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