Was I interrupting some kind of séance, I wondered, as I entered this new five-room boutique B&B on the outskirts of Lancaster, not far from the Forest of Bowland? Candles flickered everywhere. Rows of tea lights were placed neatly on a mantelpiece, giant candles stood in glass bowls on sideboards, the smell of aromatherapy oil filled the room (lit by yet more tea lights) and higgledy-piggledy clusters of candles illuminated a fireplace in a dark corner.

You could almost hear the wax dripping. Was this the meeting place of a secret Forest of Bowland society? Was I about to be initiated into a peculiar Lancastrian cult?

The walls were painted dark grey and there was a sense of candlelit gloom as the light calmly flickered, revealing red velvet armchairs, bowls of old-fashioned boiled sweets and coffee tables festooned with art books. A spiky-haired man wearing an untucked shirt and adidas trainers arrived from a back room and looked at me inquisitively.

I gave my name and he shook my hand, introducing himself as James, the owner. He offered a welcome drink by the fireplace (included in the price), but I declined because I was tired from travelling. I was then led to a large, very comfortable but somewhat gloomy, candleless grey bedroom.

So began my stay at this decidedly odd establishment that has recently, I later learnt, been chosen as the best B&B in the North West of England. It is run by James Gray, a thirtysomething former film and TV set designer.

In the candlelit dining room, he explained the history of the Georgian building, saying that it was once owned by a local businessman whose will stipulated that his wife could continue to live at the house only if she did not remarry or have children should he die before her.

He did, and the result was that she had no heirs and the ownership of the building fell to a lunatic asylum across the street. The asylum’s director lived in the house until the institution closed. Gray bought the property in January last year. After renovations it opened to guests a year ago.

In the dining room I ate beef stew (dining options are limited to what Gray has on site, though he can adapt to requests made in advance) and took in the darkened surroundings. The only other diners were a whispering couple, who added to the sense of secrecy.

Railway posters from the first half of the 20th century hung by the tables. In one corner there was an ancient travel chest. In a side room an old black and white picture of Morecambe blended in with the grey walls as a chanteuse wailed soulfully from hidden speakers.

If you are visiting the Forest of Bowland and feel like something a bit different, The Ashton delivers (peculiar cults or not).

The Ashton (01524 68460, theashtonlancaster.com), Wyresdale Road, Lancaster LA1 3JJ. Mystery Guest paid £98 for a B&B double.

Room 8 out of 10

Food 7

Service 8.5

Value 7

Score 7.63

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