First impressions: Ickworth is one of three National Trust properties that is used as a hotel (the others are Cliveden in Berkshire and The Causeway Hotel in County Antrim). While furnishings are not original, the exterior, and features such as the fireplaces and coving in the Grade II listed building, have been lovingly preserved.

The manicured gardens and surrounding parkland, designed by landscape architect Capability Brown, make a for a grand entrance, but the showstopper is the 18th century Rotunde, which was designed by Italian architects Francis Sandy and Mario Asprucci the Younger. It was built for the 4th Earl of Bristol, who took his inspiration by classical Rome, most notably displayed by a stunning collar of friezes based on Homer’s Iliad and Odyssey. Hotel guests who collect an entry card from the hotel reception can tour the Rotunde for free, as well as visit the National Trust shop and café in the West Wing.

Finding the hotel is easy – it is well signposted from Bury St Edmunds, four miles away, and is about two hours from London by train and a bit less by car.

Why it’s special: The hotel has occupied the East Wing of Ickworth House since 2002, which was once the home of generations of the Hervey family. The family brought the house notoriety with stories of gun running, drug addiction and jewellery theft; many of these stories documented in newspaper clippings that hang in frames on the first floor.

Since being handed over to the National Trust, Ickworth has shaken off its tumultuous history and is now laidback and welcoming. Check-in is at a stark retro desk in the hall and staff are dressed casually. This relaxed approach is probably due to the hotel’s family friendly credentials. Wellies of all sizes fill the hallway, there’s a shed full of bikes, ponies in the stables, tennis court, swimming pool, trampoline and kids’ clubs, among other facilities.

Despite this family focus – we were one of only two couples staying at the hotel who didn’t have children – the hotel also makes a great getaway for grown ups – horse riding, tennis and cycling are just as entertaining for adults, and additions such as an adults-only restaurant mean that you’re not constantly surrounded by kids.

The décor is not what you’d expect from a property of this age. The huge pieces of striking modern art and retro furniture from the 1950s, 60s and 70s won’t be to everyone’s taste but I thought the overhaul effect was quirky and worked well with the original features – high ceilings, mirrored window shutters and huge fireplaces.

Hitting the sack: The 27 rooms, named after people who feature in Ickworth’s history include six in modern décor but ours, Sandy (named after Ickworth’s architect), on the second floor was traditional. It had polished antique furniture, velvet-covered chairs, a neat crystal chandelier, and soft velvet bedspread. The bathroom was almost the same size as the bedroom with a freestanding bath and shower that I never managed to get consistently hot. The toiletries were unmemorable but the bathroom was spotlessly clean and the bath filled quickly. The room had baby listening facilities, small television with DVD player and gorgeous views over the front of the hotel. In the room was a map of various walks and bicycle rides in the grounds, details of the house opening times, and some useful pointers on the opening times of the two restaurants (plus the meal times in the kids’ clubs).

Sampling the food: Frederick’s is the child-free restaurant and is decked in sultry purple with candlelit ambience, a stark contrast to the Conservatory, with its elegant arched windows overlooking the garden, and rich greenery against a white wall. At Frederick’s three courses without wine costs £37.50. Our choices of Suffolk black bacon with monkfish cheek and slow cooked pigeon with ceps, dandelion leaf and sage to start were winners – fresh ingredients in good combinations. The main courses – venison loin with broad beans, venison sausage and chocolate foam, and wild seabass poached in vanilla oil were equally tasty and in portions that didn’t leave you too full – so there was plenty of room for a caramelised apple tart and hot praline hazelnut ravioli, the latter of which was melt-in-the-mouth delicious.

We were advised to book for Sunday lunch in the Conservatory the following day, which was a more hearty affair, with most diners opting for roast beef and all the trimmings, but a lighter dish – Dover sole with nettle risotto was fresh and flavoursome. Two courses costs £19.95 and three courses £26.95. Only the wine was disappointing – choices by the glass were limited to just Pinot Grigio or Chardonnay for white (they were out of the Chateau les Miaudoux Bergerac), but order by the bottle and there are over 100 to choose from.

Breakfast in the Conservatory, served 7.30am-10am, offered juices, yoghurts, fresh Bircher muesli, cereals, pastries, breads and limited fresh fruit (an apple and orange-rich fruit salad and some melon), as well as hot food including some of the tastiest pork and leek sausages I’ve tried, which are sourced from a nearby farm. We ordered an excellent plate of kippers but were disappointed by the lukewarm porridge and underdone, sloppy poached eggs.

Added attractions: The afore-mentioned activities means there’s plenty to fill a weekend, or even a week, with swimming, riding, cycling, football, board games, computer games, walking and tennis among the options. There’s also a spa in the basement, which has four treatments rooms and offers facials, massages, scrubs, manicures, pedicures, reflexology, and also treatments catered to men and pregnant women. In addition, there are regular events at the National Trust property, such as the hanging basket workshop that was going on the weekend I was there. The hotel also offer 11 apartments elsewhere on the estate, which have kitchens and up to two bedrooms.

Access all areas: Steps to the hotel door mean it cannot be accessed by guests in a wheelchair (the National Trust wing is wheelchair accessible though).

The bottom line: Rooms start from £165 per night including VAT and breakfast, but are higher at peak periods.

What we think: With so many activities on offer, Ickworth offers a self-contained weekend break for families and grown-ups in sumptuous surroundings.

Contact The Ickworth Hotel and Apartments, Horringer, Bury St. Edmunds, Suffolk, IP29 5QE, tel. 01284 735350;info@ickworthhotel.co.uk; www.ickworthhotel.co.uk

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