You don’t get soap at the Crown and Castle, a restaurant with 18 rooms at
Orford in Suffolk. Instead, there is a “grapefruit massage bar with shea
butter”. Do you wash with it, or ask for a glass of Chablis as an
accompaniment?
Aside from grapefruit massage bars, there are some very good things about the
Crown and Castle. One is Orford itself: an adorable small town with a
castle. Another is the friendliness of the staff, led by Ruth Watson,
Channel Five’s hotel inspector (the inspector, on this occasion, being
inspected). While most country hotels – at the least the ones I’ve been to –
seem to be run by South Africans, everyone that I met here was a local.
Where, I wonder, does Watson find them?
Although this isn’t a budget establishment, the two old codgers in the bar
when we arrived for dinner were still there when we left. I took this as a
good sign. And although the square grey chairs looked a bit tired, the decor
is jolly: bright colours; embroidered flags from Port Said; a large
Edwardian pastel of a nude woman in the sea, adopting a most uncomfortable
posture.
The problem, I found, is the omnipresence of Watson. The cooking is hale, if
not exciting: robust flavours, contrasting textures, local ingredients. But
I could have done without the code referring to Watson cookery books that
the recipes appear in. There is also a rigmarole at the beginning of the
wine list about why they don’t ask you to try the wine, unless customers
want it. And what about this: “Sherry is a wine – and good sherry (the sort
we have) is a revelation.” Please. Sherlock Holmes’s Watson wisely kept in
the background.
I got the last available room: bright yet homey, smelling strongly of hay (new
seagrass), with a local history book and cycling map. A narcotically
comfortable bed was followed by a fine breakfast, shared with a man in
tweeds. Not a grapefruit in sight.
Bottom line: Clive Aslet paid £279.20 for an en suite double room,
dinner for two people and breakfast. Three nights’ B&B with two à
la carte three-course dinners and a pub supper across the street at the
King’s Head is from £400 per couple.
Sampling the fare: Big emphasis on local ingredients, but this wasn’t
cooking to rattle the horses.
Best thing: Orford is the most fabulous place.
Worst thing: Uncomfortably large bill.
Access all areas: Yes.
Need to know:
The Crown and Castle, Orford, Suffolk IP12 2LJ
01394 450205
www.crownandcastle.co.uk
Room: 8 out of 10.
Food: 7 out of 10.
Service: 9 out of 10.
Value: 6 out of 10.
Have you stayed at the Crown and Castle? Do you agree or disagree with our
review? Post a Comment using the form below
I noticed in your top 10 best winter warming british pubs you featured The George Inn at Hubberholme. We stayed there about a year ago and it was for a friends wedding present so there was around 10 of us altogether. The rooms were very cold. We were not made to feel welcome at all. Two friends arrived later in the morning whilst we were out walking. They asked if they could have coffee on arrival and was told this was not possible!!! Two other friends had to take a heater into the bathroom while they were getting ready. We were in the bar at lunchtime after our walk. When the last bell was rung. We asked if we could have a drink and we were told we could as long as we drank it outside (bearing in mind this was October). Some local walkers were also thrown out and they made a joke to us saying that we should be lucky we were not staying there, however, we informed him we were residents. I vote this the worst place i have every stayed at. Please re-visit for everyones sake!!
Alison Riley, Nottingham, England
My wife and I spent a week at the Crown & Castle in July 2007. Our large bedroom (no 3) was comfortable, with a superb king-size bed. The large bathroom was very austere, without a hint of luxury. We found the restaurant manager, a youngish woman, rude and inept, and we disliked being given a different table every evening. We also disliked being shuffled into the small side room by the kitchen door when we were resident for a week in one of their most expensive bedrooms. We found the food good in parts, much less so in others. The junior dining room staff were sweet - friendly and courteous. Our overall impression, though, after a week was a lack of warmth and serious overpricing.
Stephen, Southampton, UK
May I suggest that when reviewing a hotel of this type you send someone who does not find the bill "uncomfortably large", perhaps he should stick to Travelodges. Presumably he and his wife do not cook at home, if they did they would appreciate the codes referring dishes to cookery books. I do not know what room your man occupied but the ones I have seen have warranted close to 10 out of 10.
What is difficult to understand is why he thought the food achieved only 7 out of 10. Having eaten in most of the world's leading hotels and in many of this type in England I would rate it 10.
A.C.Batcheler, by email,
I know the VILLAGE of Orford fairly well and agree it is a lovely place. The Crown and Castle has always been the "posh" hotel in Orford and the King's Head and the Jolly Sailor have always been frequented by the locals. There has been some resentment in Orford since Ruth Watson has acquired the King's Head in addition to the Crown and Castle. However, on a recent visit to the King's Head I would say that both "visitors" and locals were present.
Perhaps I can help in your surprise at encountering good local staff. Orford is out on a limb and employment is not easily found without travelling a fair distance. Suffolk born and bred people are friendly, hard-working, and respectful.
Did you visit the smoke house? Take a boat trip around Havergate Island? Visit the Castle? Buy fresh lobster from the quay? As you hinted, there is far more to Orford than The Crown and Castle!
Patricia Fenn, Woodbridge,
We found the approach on the wine list to be refreshing and the overall attitiude to service a very pleasant change to other overbearing restaurants. We have eaten in higher 'rosetted' restaurants and the evening meal and particularly the breakfast were of better quality.
We agree that Orford is a lovely location and we intend to return.
Tony Samson, East Horsley, Surrey