The approach to the Black Lion, if coming from the south through the town of Long Melford, is most impressive.

A mile long (ah, Long Melford) and wide thoroughfare with half-timbered and Regency buildings, interspersed with numerous antique shops and galleries (with a couple of oddities like a hat hire shop and one selling lingerie intriguingly called Whippers, or it could have been Whispers), which leads to a vast green with the elegant turreted Elizabethan brick Melford Hall overlooking it on one side. Crowning it, at the top end, one of the finest looking churches in all of England. And just before the top, where the road takes a right angled bend is the solid Georgian building of the Black Lion.

“Very Jane Austeny,” remarked Research Assistant approvingly.

An unhurried reception (if the approach had been less appealing I would have written ‘slow’) and we were shown to the Chablis Room. All ten en-suites are named after wines, a particular interest of the owner Craig Jarvis whose presence is reinforced with numerous photos of himself and his family in the public areas.

“Family photos make guests feel at home,” the RA informed me.

Our room was above the bar so there was some noise and it was the first as you come up the stairs so all other guests walk past it, but it was no big deal as it wasn’t busy when we stayed.

Each room is different and the Chablis had a huge four poster bed with flamboyant drapes; other furniture included a chaise-longue, a writing desk in front of the window and a free standing wardrobe with numerous compartments that could be locked with tasseled keys. The effect, according to the RA, was “Edwardian Empire”.

Faint panic as the receptionist told us that they stopped serving food at 2pm and it was 12 minutes past. But she went into the kitchen and reported back that if we cared to order from the Ciabetta menu, that would be fine. Lahsan, a quiet-spoken and charming Moroccan, poured my first pint of Adnams Broadside (£3.25) and the RA was watered with an Italian Pinot Grigio (£4.25 a glass or £16.95 a bottle).

It was November so the two main attractions of Long Melford, Melford Hall (National Trust, 01787-379228) and Kentwell Hall (01787-310207) were closed but there was enough daylight after lunch to take the dogs for a walk (the Black Lion welcomes pets and does not charge extra for them).

We walked down a long lime-lined drive, which led to the gates of Kentwell. The trees were festooned with small explosions of mistletoe high up in the bare branches. We came back through fields of Longhorn cattle munching methodically. Enough light remained for Holy Trinity church. The whole edifice is a work of art, superb proportions with extraordinary flushwork (a form of decoration using flints) with a wonderful chancel of high arches, wonderfully light, built with the proceeds from Britain’s Golden Fleece – wool. The church has one of the country’s finest collections of stained glass, some of it going back to when it was built in the 15th century. Be sure to see the tiny round window which depicts a trio of hares, their heads facing inwards and their bodies like spokes to a wheel. There are only three ears but the clever arrangement makes it look like each has its full compliment; it represents the Holy Trinity.

The Black Lion was voted by the readers of the East Anglian Times Best Restaurant in Suffolk 2006, and head chef Annette can be justifiably proud of that accolade. Needless to say our evening meal was very good.

From the daily specials menu, I had mussels in white wine cream sauce (£7.25) – sensuously smooth and suggestively delicious. The RA had curried pumpkin soup (£5.25) laced with coconut milk and pronounced “lovely, with subtle spicey flavours.” The curry powder had been made by Indian sous-chef Matt Banjerman.

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