My husband wonders why I’m eying up the concierge when we arrive in reception but I explain that I’m simply looking at his uniform. I’ve read that they’re designed by Giorgio Armani and wonder if they’re considered a perk of the job.

“Don’t be silly” replies my husband. “You’re hardly likely to wear it out!”

In any rate I comment that the best perk must surely be the chance to sample executive chef David Thompson’s food.

The renowned Australian chef (who trained with a former Bangkok palace chef and has published a cook book nicknamed the bible of Thai cuisine) is apparently directing in his kitchen tonight, so I’m working up an appetite for dinner in the hotel’s restaurant Nahm, the only Thai restaurant to be awarded a Michelin star.

St James's Hotel & Club, Mayfair, SW1

A Victorian townhouse with exquisite decor and central Green Park location

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But first things first and we head to our room on the third floor through sweeping spacious corridors where floor-to-ceiling doors blend into the striking black, corrugated-wood panelled walls. We enter our chic and contemporary studio suite to discover an uncluttered, light and airy room with Italian furniture, large pale cream sofas and a super king-sized bed smothered with goose down pillows and Egyptian cotton sheets. There’s a huge flat screen Sony TV, and an ample ensuite with walk in shower, deep bath tub and COMO Shambhala bathroom amenties to boot.

We’ve only been in the room two minutes and my husband has discovered that there’s surround sound, speakers in the marble bathroom and a handy touch screen console on each side of the bed that allows you to control the lights and temperature (and operate the "do not disturb sign" without getting out of bed. He can’t get the room cold enough using the air conditioning, complains, and a fan is left in our room while we're at dinner.

There’s only 41 rooms in The Halkin and, with almost twice as many staff, guests can rest assured that they’ll have prompt, friendly and personal service.

Tucked in a secluded road close to Hyde Park corner, the Halkin is in an ideal, yet quiet location. We pop out to Knightsbridge shopping and stroll around Hyde Park, before returning for a drink in the bar. It’s a bit soulless but the Halkin’s signature drink – a ginger martini cocktail (£9.50) – makes up for the disappointment and we head to our room to freshen up for the evening meal.

Later on we discover the menu a little confusing but staff are on hand to direct us. We’re told to choose a soup, salad, curry and stir fry from the menu as we’ve opted for the traditional Thai meal (£55 per person) which is served all at once in the middle of the table so everyone can share. We’re a little daunted by the number of dishes that arrive but dive in. I’m seduced by the design and colours, coupled by the sensation of heat, sweetness and sourness.

The stir fried Scottish scallops with deep fried shallots, garlic, lemongrass and ginger are devine but my husband finds the beef stir fried with chilli paste a little too hot and keeps pausing to cleanse his palate with the delicious hot and sour clear soup.

The storm of flavours proves a bit too much for the man on the next table and the chef is out in a flash to discuss his choice of dishes, but we push on undaunted. I’m bewitched by the seabass with wild ginger and while my husband is in awe at the green peppercorn curry of venison.

We’re eventually beaten, in awe of this chef’s talents, and head off for a brisk walk to the nearby Met Bar for more cocktails. The concierge put us on the guest list to the infamous members-only bar and informs us that Halkin guests can also use The Met’s spa and fitness centre if we feel in need of retribution the following day.

The next morning I eventually arrive at breakfast and gleefully sip the freshly-squeezed juice. I don’t feel hungry but my husband tucks into a fully cooked breakfast (£25) and can’t fault it (a rare occurrence). I opt for the smoked salmon and scrambled eggs (£12.50) and agree, finding just enough room to sample the delicious homemade jams, honey and marmalade.

As I pack my bags my husband is still reading the list of complimentary services (wi-fi, newspaper etc) and remarks that had we left our shoes outside over night there’s a free shoe shine service. With his roots in the military, it would have been good test of whether the hotel needed to polish up its act, but judging from the rest of our experience, I seriously doubt it.

Bottom line: Doubles from £330 for two people per night. Traditional Thai dinner (soup, salad, curry and stir fry) £55; bottle of wine from £29; cocktails £9.50; continental breakfast £20; fully cooked breakfast £25. In-room massages from £45 for 30 minutes.

Need to know: Halkin St, London SW1X 7DJ; tel. 020 7333 1000; www.halkin.como.bz

Access all areas: Disabled access to rooms and restaurant

Best thing: The restaurant Nahm and the quiet, yet central, location

Worst thing: The lack of facilities - a treatment room and fitness studio will be completed in September 2008

Food: 9.5 out of 10 (Thai restaurant – lunch and dinner)

Service: 9.5 out of 10

Value for money: 8.5 out of 10

Useful links: www.comohotels.co.uk; www.nahm.como.bz

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