Vegetarians won't mind missing out on the Fox & Anchor - a recently restored Victorian pub-with-rooms by Smithfield market.

A quick glance at the menu as we settled into green leather seats in the pleasing gloom of the back bar, with its polished-wood partitions, snugs and lovely old market pictures, was enough to establish that.

Starters included potted pig's head and piccalilli, chicken liver on toasted sourdough, and Welsh rarebit. Then there were steak and oyster pies, slabs of ham hock, chunky goose-fat chips, steak tartare, fat juicy burgers, and thick slices of gammon.

What was the potted pig's head like? “I've never eaten it, sir,” replied the waiter, sounding like Jeeves. Do you get a whole head? “No sir, just the cheeks,” he said matter-of-factly, rubbing his face to indicate which bits (a little off-puttingly).

After slurping a dozen oysters and drinking ale from glass-bottomed pewter mugs, the pig's head was delivered in a jar, along with a piece of toast. It tasted like shreds of very nice pork (which of course it was).

We ordered more ale. Steaks arrived - the beef, like the pig's head, having come from Smithfield meat market. They were tender and tasty, served on sturdy wooden boards.

The Fox & Anchor reopened this year after closing in 2006 and being renovated to bring out the best of the old pub, long popular with early morning market traders.

Two bigwigs behind the Malmaison hotel group bought the pub - the London Malmaison is next door - with the intention of creating a “hops and chops, cuvées and duvets” atmosphere.

It's worked. The leather seats, the cosy gloom, the ales, the steaks, the oysters, the pigs' heads, were all, I felt, how a pub should be. It even reminded me of George Orwell's 1946 article The Moon Under the Water, in which he dreams of the perfect pub with “good solid” meals, “a soft, creamy sort of stout” served in a “pewter pot”, and “the solid, comfortable ugliness of the 19th century”. F&A just about fits the bill.

I checked the room. There are six, each with a name and jokey door signs that say either “Gone to the pub” or “Nursing hangover”.

Feeling that “A little tipsy” would be quite appropriate, I entered a stylish, modern room with a purple chaise longue, leaded windows looking out on a restaurant called “TART”, and a bathroom with a Victorian tub.

Absolutely excellent. I slept like a log (only vaguely hearing morning market noises), and woke feeling OK after all that ale. In the hall on the way out there was a picture of Rock Hudson with the quotation: “I've had hangovers before, but this time even my hair hurts.”

At least I wasn't as bad as that.

Bottom line Mystery Guest paid £193 for a double; weekend rooms from £95

Sampling the fare About £40 a head for oysters, beer, pig's head and steak

Best thing The pub

Worst thing Couldn't get TV to work properly

Need to know Fox & Anchor (020-7250 1300, www.foxandanchor.com), 115 Charterhouse Street, EC1 6AA

Room 8.5 out of 10

Food 9 out of 10

Service 9 out of 10

Value 6.5 out of 10

Score 8.25

PUT TO THE TEST: 20 Mystery Guest questions for... Fox & Anchor, London EC1

1. Do rooms have kettles/coffee makers? And is there fresh milk?

Yes, with fresh coffee but not fresh milk.

2. Is there a hairdryer, and is it fixed to a wall?

Hand-held hairdryer.

3. Are coathangers metal, wooden, removable?

Removeable wooden.

4. Complimentary bottle of water?

Yes.

5. Sheets and blankets or duvets?

Duvets.

6. What about a 'pillow menu'?

No pillow choices.

7. Is lighting good enough for reading?

Yes.

8. Is there a shaving/make up mirror? And is it well lit?

No specific shaving/make up mirror, but well-lit main mirror.

9. What about the in-room entertainment system?

Plasma TV and Bose sound system.

10. Is there a temperature control panel?

Yes.

11. Do the windows open?

Yes.

12. Is there good sound-proofing?

Reasonable, though there is some market sound in the morning.

13. Is there wi-fi internet access?

Yes.

14. Is there a good place to go jogging nearby?

Not really.

15. What is the vegetarian food selection like?

"We wouldn't say it's a good place for vegetarians, but we are open to requests from vegetarians and can make up dishes."

16. Is there baby listening/babysitting? And are children welcome at adults' evening meals?

No baby listening, but babysitting possible.

17. Is there wheelchair access to all areas?

No.

18. Do you get a free paper in the morning?

On request.

19. Is there a pub round the corner?

There's a pub downstairs.

20. Is there free car parking? And is it secure?

No.

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