IS THERE such a thing as a fairly priced, decent-quality hotel in London with a reasonable restaurant and a convivial atmosphere? Somewhere away from noisy roads, but with friendly service, nearby places of interest, and convenient transport links?

Or is all this just wishful thinking verging on total delusion?

London hotels have a bad rep. Americans I talked to recently looked pale and wan after staying in the capital. They had shelled out £200 for an ugly hotel with boxy rooms. “Oh my God,” they said, “what a rip-off.”

I knew where they were coming from. On a search for a “dream” cheap-but-charming London hotel on the internet it all seemed to be dreary chain hotels for £100-plus. The Euston Thistle was £125 (breakfast extra), a Premier Inn in Harrow was £100.

But then a friend recommended The Victoria. A double was £110. The rooms on its website looked stylish. It was close to Richmond Park on a quiet road. There was a well-regarded restaurant. The hotel was considered “great value” by one UK guidebook. There was even a cosy pub, the Plough, near by.

The Victoria comes close to living up to the mythical London hotel that is pleasant and doesn't cost a bomb.

But the problem is, I discovered, the rooms. Mine was, frankly, a letdown. It was cold, boringly Ikea-ish, with a bed with hard slats, an open clothes hanger (not a wardrobe), a noisy bathroom fan, and a tiny TV. There was also, annoyingly, no wi-fi internet. Yes, everything looked “minimalist” and quite modish, but it just didn't feel very comfortable.

This was a great shame because The Victoria, a former pub, has a lot going for it. The restaurant is bright and airy, with a conservatory at one end and a bar with leather armchairs and shelves full of Penguin classics at the other. The walls are whitewashed and the service is on-the-ball. My Serrano ham followed by roast pollock and a sharp lime sorbet was just right. There were no delays. The food tasted great.

And the atmosphere was convivial. Students were discussing gap-year travels with parents. Others were talking about share deals. “It's time to buy M&S!” exclaimed a man in a red jumper. A boozy group of film-industry folk was complaining good- naturedly about the BBC. Jazz played. Waiters smiled and asked if you would like another drink.

Outside, Richmond Park - London's largest, full of deer belonging to the Queen, ponds with swans, and ancient oaks - was a five-minute stroll away. A 45-minute wander would take you to Richmond itself. And trains into Central London, a 25-minute journey, were close by.

So it was a pity about the room. A little more thought about the decor (and a better bed) and The Victoria could just about make the London hotel dream come true.

Bottom line Mystery Guest paid £110 for a B&B double.

Sampling the fare £26 for three courses.

Best thing Restaurant atmosphere.

Worst thing The room.

Need to know The Victoria (020-8876 4238, www.thevictoria.net), 10 West Temple Sheen, London SW14 7RT

Room 4 out of 10

Food 7.5 out of 10

Service 8 out of 10

Value 7 out of 10

Score 6.88

PUT TO THE TEST

20 Mystery Guest questions for... The Victoria, London SW14

1. Do rooms have kettles/coffee makers? And is there fresh milk?

No, but there are kettles in the hall with fresh milk available.

2. Is there a hairdryer, and is it fixed to a wall?

Hand-held hairdryer.

3. Are coathangers metal, wooden, removable?

Metal, removeable.

4. Complimentary bottle of water?

Available from the hall.

5. Sheets and blankets or duvets?

Duvets.

6. What about a 'pillow menu'?

Feather and anti-allergic pillows available.

7. Is lighting good enough for reading?

Yes.

8. Is there a shaving/make up mirror? And is it well lit?

Yes, reasonably lit.

9. What about the in-room entertainment system?

TV but no CD or DVD.

10. Is there a temperature control panel?

No.

11. Do the windows open?

Yes.

12. Is there good sound-proofing?

OK sound-proofing.

13. Is there wi-fi internet access?

Not when Mystery Guest visited.

14. Is there a good place to go jogging nearby?

Yes, Richmond Park.

15. What is the vegetarian food selection like?

OK.

16. Is there baby listening/babysitting? And are children welcome at adults' evening meals?

Baby listening devices but no baby-sitting.

17. Is there wheelchair access to all areas?

One room can be accessed by wheelchair.

18. Do you get a free paper in the morning?

Yes, in the breakfast room.

19. Is there a pub round the corner?

Yes, The Plough is a short walk away.

20. Is there free car parking? And is it secure?

Yes, but the car park is not locked at night.

Times recommends

• The world's 10 weirdest things to eat
• Correspondents: hoteliers revenge for Tripadvisor
• A slow, ponderous journey up the Mekong