Taking the mantle from the Great Eastern Hotel was a substantial challenge, but the Andaz hotel has more than succeeded, despite the curious name (it means “style” in Hindi apparently).

Andaz has kept many of the features that made GEH popular – the multiple restaurants and bars, the contemporary styling and the trendy nightlife, but has added its own panache.

You notice the differences from the moment you enter – an immaculately-suited receptionist approaches clasping a tablet PC and checks you in – there is a reception desk, of sorts, if you’re a stickler for tradition, but I thought this was more fun. He directed me to a modern leather armchair, offered me a glass of wine and took my details.

I was then shown to my bedroom (the guidance was grateful given the hotel’s confusing layout). The room was a simple, modern, airy space with high ceilings, photographic art, a big window, huge gilded mirror and a few gizmos. The receptionist stayed for a few minutes to explain the gadgets, such as the ipod dock, refreshingly quiet air conditioning, and plasma television, then left me alone.

Novotel London St Pancras, NW1

No points for character, but this hotel is handy for the Eurostar and has comfort, attentive staff and splendid food

BACKGROUND

• The Bermondsey Square Hotel, London

• The Fox and Anchor, Smithfield, London, EC1

• Andaz, Liverpool Street, London EC2

• The Zetter, London EC1

• Apex City of London Hotel, EC3

BACKGROUND

• The Fox and Anchor, Smithfield, London EC1

• Threadneedles, City of London, EC2

• The Hoxton, London, EC2

• Sleep Inn, Tower Hill, London E1

Related Internet Links

• More hotels in East London and The City

The Frette linen was crisp and soft and I loved the bathroom – vast, with a fast-fill deep bath and REN toiletries. There was also a safe, alarm clock, bathrobe and slippers.

Usually I wouldn’t bother with in-room movies and music because of the sky-high charges, but here everything is included in the room rate. That means movies, music, games, laundry, internet, local calls, newspapers, minibar water and juices, breakfast, drinks and snacks during the day and even wine and canapés each evening in the lobby, or living room, as it’s known by the staff.

Of course you need to give some warning on the laundry – they’ll press a shirt in 90 minutes and return laundry by 10am if it’s been dropped off by 7pm. But there’s no catch – I found plenty of recently released albums and movies alongside classics and the wine and snacks in the lobby were delicious – provided by a different one of the hotel’s restaurants each night.

The hotel has five restaurants: Miyaki – a neat sushi bar; Catch – which is strong on fish; Eastway – a bistro; the George Pub – for British pub grub and 1901 – the most formal one.

I had dinner in 1901, an elegant dining room that has a vast high domed ceiling, dripping chandeliers and beautiful plaster covings and pillars. The sommelier, Michael Baronie, started me off with a delicious rhubarb cocktail that he said his barman had been tinkering with, then suggested an unconventional selection of wines to go with each course.

I started with native lobster ravioli with fennel puree, which was fresh, and tasty without being too rich, and perfectly complimented by a Reisling.

My main course of halibut was steamed and delicately served with spring vegetables and lemon thyme. The Greco di Tufo from Campania in Italy was Michael’s choice – both were divine. Then came my poached rhubarb with vanilla pannacotta and rhubarb foam and puree, which was beautifully presented, and delicious alongside a glass of Coteaux du Layon from the Loire Valley.

I had breakfast the next morning in the same restaurant (served until 10am), although a less formal buffet option is available in Eastway (served until 11.30am). The food again was top class – a delicate fresh fruit smoothie (£4.50), perfect rich yellow scrambled egg and crisp hot toast. There were also unusual additions like the cold tea smoothies (£5.50) and a tea suggestion with each dish. The Full English, at a steep £25, included Gloucester Old Spot pork sausages, and started with a bowl of granola.

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