The Fox and Anchor is the latest invention from the Malmaison/Hotel du Vin camp. It’s a radical departure from the boutique hotel offering – an old fashioned pub with just six bedrooms – no trendy bar, no brasserie – just real ale and good pub grub.

Downstairs are all the hallmarks of a Victorian pub – colourful tile work, mosaic tiling, a mahogany and brass bar and leather banquettes lining one wall. The walls are adorned with black and white photos of burly butchers from the Smithfield meat market opposite, and the bar is topped with jars of pickled eggs and pork cockles.

In the back room are a number of tables separated by wood panelling and candlelit at night – it’s more intimate but maintains the feel of an old London pub.

That said, there’s a little of the Malmaison touch in the décor upstairs – a Gothic colour scheme of dark, broody browns hues, with cushions in soft velvety textures.

Novotel London St Pancras, NW1

No points for character, but this hotel is handy for the Eurostar and has comfort, attentive staff and splendid food

BACKGROUND

• The Bermondsey Square Hotel, London

• The Fox and Anchor, Smithfield, London, EC1

• Andaz, Liverpool Street, London EC2

• The Zetter, London EC1

• Apex City of London Hotel, EC3

BACKGROUND

• The Fox and Anchor, Smithfield, London EC1

• Threadneedles, City of London, EC2

• The Hoxton, London, EC2

• Sleep Inn, Tower Hill, London E1

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• More hotels in East London and The City

My room, St Bart’s, was large with lead-latticed windows looking onto the Clerkenwell streets behind Smithfield. The double-glazing was effective at dulling the noise of lorries coming and going from the market but light sleepers might want to request a room on the top floor to cut out street noise.

The bed was large and comfortable, there was a desk with internet access, a minibar, iron and ironing board, walk-in wardrobe and flat-screen television with Sky plus a Bose CD and DVD player with straight-forward instructions.

The bathroom was also large with a walk-in rainsoak shower, claw-foot bath, elegant metal sink that looked like it was once a childs’ bath, and divine Miller Harris toiletries.

Our evening meal in the pub began with two ales served in tankards, then a bottle of French red from the extensive wine list. We started with a pint of prawns (£8.95) and ale-cured salmon (£6.95), both fresh and delicious, then I had the burger (£10.50)and he had a rib eye steak (£16.95). Both were served on chunky wooden blocks, cooked to order and in generous portions – it was one of the best burgers I’ve eaten. We finished off with a knickerbocker glory (£4.50)– another success.

Where usually I’d order delicate fish dishes or unusual combinations of food, this simple menu of the fish-and-chips and steak-pie variety got me salivating over good pub grub again – and I wasn’t disappointed.

The service throughout was cheerful, informed and efficient. Landlord Scott Malaugh sets the tone with his witty banter and the staff follow suit – which, together with the great food, explains why this pub was full on a Monday evening.

Breakfast, served 7am-11am was also good, and not bad value at £8.95. There was no fruit, cereal or yoghurt here though – it’s fry-ups or eggs Benedict with juices and tea or coffee. If you want something healthier you can elect to have breakfast at the Malmaison a couple of doors down – which is also where you check in and out.

There's only two reviews on Tripadvisor.co.uk so far as the Fox and Anchor, in its latest incarnation, is still pretty new. Users gave it three and four out of five, with both complaining about the steep climb up the stairs to the bedrooms - but then, what do you expect in a Victorian pub? Both praised the food and location.

Bottom line: Rooms cost from £165 mid-week and from £99 at the weekend (excluding VAT).

Best thing: the pub grub and the service

Worst thing: not being able to check in at the pub

Access all areas: The pub is wheelchair accessible but the rooms are accessible only by stairs.

Need to know: The Fox and Anchor, 115 Charterhouse St, Smithfield, London. EC1M 6AA; tel. 0207 250 1300; www.foxandanchor.com; smalaugh@foxandanchor.com

Food: 9 out of 10

Service: 9 out of 10

Room: 9 out of 10

Value: 8 out of 10

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