The hotel: it’s a B&B, actually, in a former coach house near Ashbourne, Derbyshire, run by Paula and Alan Coker Mayes. The facilities don’t run to spas, golf courses or fitness centres, but the service is outstanding. Expect all the personal touches and attention to detail you get when staying with particularly hospitable friends, but none of the intrusion you get when staying with overenthusiastic ones.

The 19th-century building has an unusual upside-down layout: the lounge and dining room are upstairs, while the three ensuite bedrooms are below. All have supremely comfort-able beds, TV, video and hi-fi, but which one you go for depends on what you’re after.

Occidens is a split-level suite with a small lounge and stairs to the bedroom and shower. The panelled Meridies has a handmade (by Alan) four-poster, with a hand-sewn (by Paula) tapestry frieze. Oriens is stuffed with pictures and has the best bathroom — the bath would take three people comfortably, so long as they knew each other well enough. The smellies are Gilchrist & Soames, and the monogrammed towels and bathrobes are large and fluffy. There’s also a secret stash of chocolates, but you’ll have to find those for yourselves.

What about the “and breakfast” bit? Served upstairs in the light, pretty dining room, this will set you up nicely for a day’s exploring. Handwritten menus offer fruit, cereal, pastries and a range of cooked options, while the full English comes with veggie and Derbyshire variations (with local oatcakes). The bread is home-made, and pots of tea or coffee are generous, with views of the garden and dales beyond.

Where can we have dinner? Ask ahead, and Paula and Alan also do a great dinner. Make your choice over aperitifs in the book-lined lounge as Sam the cat snores nearby. It might be Paula’s roast vegetable soup, then salmon with a honey and mustard glaze, and home-made pud. The wine list isn’t huge, but prices are reasonable.

Otherwise, a few minutes away in Ashbourne, you’ll find Cary’s Bar & Bistro (01335 347911) and lots of pubs doing decent grub (try the Green Man or the Black’s Head).

Omnia Somnia. Bit of an odd name, isn’t it? The Coker Mayes aren’t Latin scholars, but they do love the language. This translates as “everything is a dream” — a bit twee, perhaps, but at least it rhymes nicely.

Is there much to do in Ashbourne? It’s a handsome Georgian market town, known as the gateway to the Peak, but well worth a wander in itself. Delis, cheese shops and bakeries tempt you inside, and there’s a healthy pub quota. Come on a Thursday or Saturday for the market, or at Shrovetide for the traditional “football match”, when hundreds engage in a mad brawl game featuring goal posts three miles apart.

And further afield? The Peak District National Park is on your doorstep — yomp over rolling green hills, between dry-stone walls and around sheep. Cross the stepping stones at Dovedale and head up Thorpe Cloud or up the valley to Milldale.

If you’ve a sweet tooth, head for Bakewell and buy your original puddings (not tarts) from Bloomers, on Water Lane. Not far off is stately Chatsworth House (£9 for entry to the house and the Capability Brown gardens).

Who should go? Anyone who thinks small is beautiful.

Who shouldn’t? Anyone after a penthouse suite.

Omnia Somnia, Ashbourne, Derbyshire (01335 300145, www.omniasomnia.co.uk). Doubles £85-£90 per night, B&B; three-course dinner £25pp, excluding wine

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