Some people put their newly born children down for Eton. Others put them down for a room at the Star Inn, the much-lauded hotel and restaurant that has just won the Taste of England category in the Enjoy England Excellence Awards. Its website lists “availability” for a whole year ahead – and, yes, there are already bookings for next March.

The Star is a thatched 14th-century pub on the edge of a quiet village near Helmsley, in the foothills of the North York Moors. Across the road are Cross House, its eight-bedroom lodge, and its shop, where a young waiter emerges from behind the goose eggs and posh cheeses to take us to our room. On the way, he points out the barn conversion-like lounge, surveyed by a mounted buffalo head, and urges us to help ourselves to the “nibbles”, which include an enormous ham shank.

Our room is beamed, with tweedy wallpaper and a crimson leather armchair: Contemporary Hunting Baronial, perhaps. It’s full of techno goodies – TV, CD, DVD – but there are plastic coat hangers in the wardrobe. The washbasin is one of those modish shallow bowls that slop water everywhere; a whirlpool spa bath compensates for an awkward hand-held shower.

Early evening, a log fire roars in the lounge, where guests come and go like an Agatha Christie house party. We sit outside with our drinks, listen to a blackbird, watch a flittering bat, and, before you can say Egon Ronay, it’s 9.30pm, the only time they could fit us in for dinner. The Michelin-starred restaurant is cosy, with low lights, plum-coloured walls, and a menu that’s more like a gastro-gazetteer: “Yoadwath Mill oak-smoked salmon Caesar-style with marinated sardines and Twineham Grange parmesan.”

We’re obviously in foodie land here, with some of its precious pretensions. Cod with “poached village duck egg” (glad it wasn’t an urban duck) is a generous, tender slab, but comes fussily perched on strips of celery. The goat’s cheese and baby onion bake is light and creamy, but monotonous.

Breakfast is served communally at a round table big enough for King Arthur. There’s a fabulous spread of fruit, cereals, meats and cheeses, with any number of cooked options, including five-star kippers. But not everyone will want to make breakfast small-talk with strangers.

An interesting place, then, but self-absorbed, with an air of auto-pilot pleasantness. And amazingly, they don’t tell you the name of the cow who provided the breakfast milk.

Bottom line: Doubles from £140, breakfast included. Stephen McClarence paid £160.

Sampling the fare: Two-course dinner for two cost £50.90, plus £17.95 for wine.

Best thing: Breakfast food.

Worst thing: Breakfast atmosphere.

Access all areas: Restaurant and three ground-floor rooms have wheelchair access.

Need to know: Star Inn (01439 770397, www.thestaratharome.co.uk), Harome, North Yorkshire.

Room: 7 out of 10.

Food: 8 out of 10.

Service: 7 out of 10.

Value: 7 out of 10.

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