I’ve never had a pint of Yosha Taywear before, but there it is before me, in a gleaming silver tankard, served in the bar at the spanking new Hotel du Vin in York.

The French barman is busy making cocktails – cocktails in North Yorkshire? It’s not like when I was growing up there – so he probably didn’t need me pestering him. However the only bitter on tap – its lonely status perhaps not surprising in a hotel dedicated to wine – is not one I’ve heard of. “Sorry, what’s it called?” I repeat a couple of times before it sinks in. Ah, Yorkshire Terrier!

The hotel is in a good location, a leisurely ten-minute walk from the railway station and five to Micklegate Bar.

Inside there are slate floors, and grey and neutral walls (cosier than it sounds) covered with arty photographs of city landmarks, such as the Minster. They do seem to have gone OTT with the fire doors, although I blame those bloody health and safety people.

Four High Petergate & Bistro, York

A trim hotel in a Georgian town house nudging one of four medieval gateways

• The Royal York, York

BACKGROUND

• Guy Fawkes Inn, York

• The Royal York, York

• Hotel du Vin, The Mount, York

• Four High Petergate & Bistro, York

BACKGROUND

• Feversham Arms, Helmsley, North Yorkshire

• The Blue Lion, East Witton, North Yorkshire

• 17 Burgate, Pickering, North Yorkshire

• Yorke Arms Hotel, Ramsgill-in-Nidderdale, North Yorkshire

BACKGROUND

• Star Inn, Harome, North Yorkshire

• Roomzzz Central, Burley Road, Leeds

• The Weavers Shed, Golcar, West Yorkshire

• Hellaby Hall Hotel, Rotherham, South Yorkshire

• Great Victoria Hotel, Bradford, West Yorkshire

Beyond the reception there’s a snug, library, the bar, some private dining rooms and a wine-tasting room.

On the other side of the bar is a large bistro, which was pretty empty despite the fact that I’d been given only two time slots for dinner. That aside we – I was joined for the evening by my parents, who live nearby – had a very pleasant time. Staff, made up of cheery locals and the friendliest Poles this side of Scarborough, were attentive and chatty. I was on a set menu as part of a dinner, bed and breakfast package, and enjoyed my chicken liver parfait with toasted brioche, a very large, fishy fishcake, and crème brûlée.

Dad, whose ultimate accolade for a restaurant dish is usually “it was all right”, described his turbot as “very tasty”. “It’s very cosmopolitan for York,” said Mum.

I retired to my room, which was cosy and well equipped – air-con, flat-screen TV, DVD player, iron, ironing board, mini bar, free wi-fi, safe, and a large “monsoon” shower in the bathroom. No complaints there and a great night’s sleep.

There was a good buffet of fruit, yoghurts, cereals and yet more cheerful staff at breakfast. I added a full-English fry-up which was a bit tasteless, and wished I’d gone for the grilled kippers with lemon and parsley instead. Still, if a rather pallid tomato is the worst you can say about a place, they must be doing something right. And it’s not every hotel built around wine that does a decent pint of Yosha Taywear.

Bottom line Will Hide paid £125 for dinner, bed and breakfast (single).
What we think Stylish, yet relaxed.
Best thing The bistro.
Worst thing Too many bloody fire doors.
Sampling the fare Two courses plus wine and service for two came to £77.
Access all areas Yes.

Need to know
Hotel du Vin, 89 The Mount, York YO24 1AX
01904 557350
www.hotelduvin.com

Value 7 out of 10.
Room 8 out of 10.
Food 8 out of 10.
Service 7 out of 10.

Have you stayed at Hotel du Vin? Do you agree or disagree with our review? Post a Comment using the form below

Times recommends

• New York's top 10 new hotels
• A Scottish monastery retreat
• Welcome back to Rwanda