When I looked for a hotel close to the railway station in York - I was coming down from Scotland on the East Coast line and fancied visiting the city for the first time - I had not expected to end up quite so close.

Turn left out of the station and there was the Royal York: a huge rambling Victorian building that was once visited by Queen Victoria herself (she stopped for tea on the way to Balmoral).

I entered through a creaky revolving door and passed into a reception with two giant chandeliers and a stately staircase snaking to a glass dome.

Then came a surprise. Upstairs, I discovered my room overlooked the station. There, straight ahead just a few feet away, was the curved roof over the platforms: a decent leap and a shimmy down a drainpipe, and I'd be at Costa Coffee in time to order an espresso and catch the next train.

I stared in disbelief. Then I heard something. It was a station announcement. From the bathroom I could hear the mumbling intonations of the loudspeaker system. The 16.24 was on time, arriving at platform 5. No excuses for missing my train tomorrow, I thought to myself, wondering how I'd managed to end up virtually sleeping in the concourse.

The room was modern with purple decor (has Britain gone purple mad, the colour is everywhere?) and the original wooden furniture, which added a bit of class. There was even a Corby trouser press, not that I've ever used one of those before.

Things weren't so bad, I decided, and went for a walk around York after inspecting the hotel grounds. These consisted of a large garden at the front (the rooms at the front of the hotel have marvellous views of York Minster, not railway sheds) with a fountain and a row of flags that made it look as though an international conference was about to be held there.

I enjoyed seeing the sights, and got back to the hotel to consider trying the basement pool. The pool had been one of the reasons I'd chosen the hotel, but it was very small and packed with people, so I didn't bother. From my room, I watched a lovely orange and mauve sunset above the station roof.

Dinner was in a fine room with a high ceiling, lots more chandeliers and big windows looking on to York Minster, which was lit up in a caramel glow down the hill.

I was given a window seat and ordered Thai fish cakes (more potato than fish) and roast beef with winter vegetables. The beef was good, though my request in advance for Yorkshire pudding was greeted with: “Sorry, but we don't have the mixture.”

Back in my room I checked the train times on the internet, listened by the bathroom window in case there were any special announcements, and got an early night.

Bottom line Mystery Guest paid £119 for a B&B double.

Sampling the fare £30 for three courses.

Best thing Easy check-in.

Worst thing Station view.

Need to know Royal York (01904 653681, www.principal-hotels.com), Station Road, YO24 1AA.

Room 6.5 out of 10.

Food 6 out of 10.

Service 6 out of 10.

Value 6 out of 10.

Score 6.13

PUT TO THE TEST: 20 Mystery Guest questions for... the Royal York, York

1. Do rooms have kettles/coffee makers? And is there fresh milk?

Kettles with milk cartons, but guests can request fresh milk from reception.

2. Is there a hairdryer, and is it fixed to a wall?

Handheld hairdryers.

3. Are coathangers metal, wooden, removable?

Wooden, removeable.

4. Complimentary bottle of water?

Only in suites.

5. Sheets and blankets or duvets?

Sheets and duvets.

6. What about a 'pillow menu'?

No.

7. Is lighting good enough for reading?

OK lighting.

8. Is there a shaving/make up mirror? And is it well lit?

Yes, lit well.

9. What about the in-room entertainment system?

Satellite television.

10. Is there a temperature control panel?

Yes.

11. Do the windows open?

Yes.

12. Is there good sound-proofing?

OK really - the railway mumblings were not too loud.

13. Is there wi-fi internet access?

Yes, wireless: £10 for a day.

14. Is there a good place to go jogging nearby?

Jogs along the York city walls recommended - a three mile circuit.

15. What is the vegetarian food selection like?

Good: two vegetarian-specialist chefs.

16. Is there baby listening/babysitting? And are children welcome at adults' evening meals?

No baby listening, but baby-sitting team is on call.

17. Is there wheelchair access to all areas?

Yes.

18. Do you get a free paper in the morning?

Yes.

19. Is there a pub round the corner?

Coopers pub in the station.

20. Is there free car parking? And is it secure?

Parking is secure: £10 a day.

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