The hotel: just off the market square in oh-so-cute Helmsley, on the edge of the North York Moors National Park, the Feversham Arms has long been the village’s premier lodging.

Its core clientele has always been those interested in country pursuits: shooting (there’s a secure gun room on site), walking and riding (there are stables a five-minute stroll away). It has an all-weather tennis court, a gym that belies the size of the hotel (not the usual broom cupboard with weights) and a heated outdoor pool.

However, those who arrive expecting a bastion of country-house stuffiness might be surprised by some of the touches: the fancy televisions, the contemporary calligraphy on the new signage, the PlayStations and DVD players in each room. Yes, the Feversham is under new management — specifically Simon Rhatigan, whose CV includes Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons and Tom’s Companies, the outfit that owns The Samling and Seaham Hall.

So what are the rooms like? There are just 17, including several spacious suites. All come with Bang & Olufsen tele- visions, marvellous Egyptian-cotton sheets and assorted 21st-century accessories. Decor is muted and modish — the hunting scenes are no more — but there is nothing here to frighten the horses. The new owners are not trying to bring The Hempel to Helmsley.

And the food? I wouldn’t say vegetarians aren’t catered for, but they might feel a bit overrun by contented carnivores. The emphasis is on local produce — expect wild duck, braised oxtail, belly of rare- breed pork, tender slow-roasted lamb, game in season and (usually) a fish special.

The food is rich and filling, with a comprehensive, albeit not cheap, wine list to accompany it. Good breakfasts, too — the bacon sandwich is parti- cularly recommended. Another bonus: room service comes without those swingeing “delivery charges” most hotels like to add, as if they’ve had to send the meal by FedEx.

Suppose we want to leave the hotel ... Brilliant, because walk out of the door and you are straight on the Cleveland Way — a three-mile stroll takes you to the atmospheric ruins of Rie-vaulx Abbey, once the greatest Cistercian centre in England.

Other nearby attractions include Mount Grace Priory, Nunnington Hall and Castle Howard, of Brideshead Revisited and Barry Lyndon fame. And there are plenty of other walks in the vicinity, including a romp among the “bridestones” of Dalby Forest — sandstone outcrops carved into curious shapes by nature.

What about the kids? There are PlayStations for the rooms on request, with a good selection of games and a reasonable library of children’s DVDs. But the best treat is down the road at Pickering, in the shape of the North York Moors Railway.

Not only are the carriages frequently hauled through the wonderful scenery by steam engines, but Goathland station was dressed up for a role as Hogsmeade in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone.

Get there early to bag one of the corridor-and-compartment coaches — my children spent half the journey re-enacting various Potter train adventures while I settled into The Lady Vanishes mode.

A family rover ticket, which enables you to hop off and on for walks, pub lunches and so on, starts at £27. For timetable details, call 01751 472508, or visit www.nymr.demon.co.uk.

Good for: out-of-season breaks — just now, the moors are uncrowded and the locals affable. Things get a little more fraught come July and August.

Bad for: vegans — and Muzak-phobes. The curse of perpetual piped music in the Feversham’s restaurant means staff switch off and no longer hear it. They need to change the disc more often — a couple of days of Michael Nyman’s The Piano is more than enough.

The Feversham Arms, Helmsley; 01439 770766, www.fevershamarmshotel.com. Doubles cost £130-£160 per night, including breakfast; suites are £200. Note that you must have dinner in the hotel at weekends: add £30pp.

Family rooms for two adults sharing with two children cost £219, B&B

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