If I have read my style columns correctly, then Manchester is the new London. That being the case, then the five-star Lowry, winner of the Excellence in England award for Large Hotel of the Year in 2004, has a lot to live up to.

First impressions are perhaps a little misleading. There’s no grand drive, and the main entrance to the hotel is through the back rather than the more impressive riverside frontage seen on the brochures and website.

It’s also clear that the hotel, which opened in 2001, is built on a developing rather a developed site. Next door there’s an unimpressive block of flats and elsewhere the chain-link fencing and vacant lots lend a slight Beirut feel to the area.

But then there is Santiago Calatrava’s marvellous light and airy Trinity footbridge, which takes you more or less directly from the hotel to Manchester’s main shopping area. With shops such as Lacoste and Harvey Nichols, it’s obviously more Ronaldo than Rooney, although that doesn’t stop Coleen shopping there.

The hotel boasts a similar stylish look, courtesy of the designer Olga Polizzi. In keeping with the bridge, it is all space and light. There’s no grand reception, just a simple desk, subdued lighting and a glass staircase to the bar, restaurant and upper floors — and a friendly and efficient staff.

Rooms also tread a thin line between austerity and minimalism, with plain walls, huge, comfortable beds, and a walk-in wardrobe. If you’re lucky there’s also a view of the River Irwell. It’s no Thames or Seine, but it’s certainly better than the view from the other side of the hotel. My bedroom had an Olga chair, a funky update of the chaise longue and more comfortable than it looked.

Dining is at the River restaurant where I had hoped to bump into passing footballers or the cast of Coronation Street. Neither appeared that night but the food made up for it — a superb creamy Omlette Arnold Bennett (he wasn’t there either), roasted John Dory with orange mashed potato and a bread and butter pudding to finish.

Sampling the fare: starters from £7.95; main courses from £16.95; desserts £6.95.

Bottom line: Doubles from £205.

Access all areas: Plenty of lifts and very wide corridors.

Need to know: The Lowry Hotel, 50 Dearmans Place, Chapel Wharf (0161-827 4000, www.roccofortehotels.com).

Room: 8 out of 10.

Food: 9 out of 10.

Service: 10 out of 10.

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