2 for 1 at Pizza Express
They gave us Room 101, but our worst fears weren’t realised. There were,
admittedly, a couple of minor drawbacks — a high step up to the bathroom,
nowhere to put toilet bags, a challenging shower — but they were hardly
Orwellian.
We slept well, ate well, but quibble with the Great Victoria’s claim to be a
boutique hotel. That suggests somewhere preeningly bijou and hardly does
justice to this great 60-bedroom monument to Bradford’s industrial heyday.
Built in the 1860s as a railway hotel, it was the place for the rich and
famous to stay. Its guests have included five prime ministers, the Beatles,
the Rolling Stones, Charlie Chaplin, the Harlem Globetrotters and most of Coronation
Street (not that you would know: the hotel makes nothing of its
colourful history).
In recent years its fortunes have faltered, but it has been rescued by new
owners who have almost finished a £5 million refurbishment. It’s an
impressive job, but the exterior lets it down. The front is scarred by a
fire escape, and the back — your first glimpse of the place if you arrive by
rail — looks so drab that you might be tempted to turn round and take the
first train home.
Inside, however, it’s another story. The plush, dark-panelled lobby and public
rooms recapture much of the old confidence and grandeur; if J. B. Priestley
strolled out of the bar, thumbs in waistcoat pockets, you wouldn’t be too
surprised.
Upstairs, the look is lighter, with chaste white corridors. Our high-ceilinged
bedroom had grey/beige walls, a reclining leather chair and a panoramic view
of the bus station (surprisingly quiet). Comfortable, if a bit anonymous.
It seemed odd to stay in Bradford and not go for a curry, but the hotel’s
spacious Corniche restaurant proved a good substitute. The menu is fresh,
imaginative and, at £14.95 for three courses, good value — excellent goat
cheese and sweet potato terrine, soufflé-light caramelised onion and blue
cheese tart, rich spinach risotto and (slightly over-salted) smoked haddock
with rosti and poached egg.
The meal was well-paced, the service friendly and no-nonsense. When I made the
booking, the receptionist had swooned: “Oh, we’ve got a lovely restaurant!”
and she was right. Decent breakfast, but no marmalade to be had. A Room 101
moment.
Bottom line: Stephen McClarence paid £85 for a double room,
including breakfast.
Sampling the fare: Dinner for two was £40, including £10.75
for drinks.
What we think: “Unvarying civility, a moderate tariff and
good provision,” as the Bradford Observer noted in 1867.
Best thing: Struttingly assured public areas.
Worst thing: The rear view.
Access all areas: Yes.
Need to know: Great Victoria Restaurant & Hotel (01274
728706, www.tomahawkhotels.co.uk),
Bridge Street, Bradford.
Room: 8 out of 10.
Food: 7 out of 10.
Service: 9 out of 10.
Value: 9 out of 10.
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