One of the best places to escape to is an island. It is particuarly convenient when an island has a bridge — in this case a dusty blue wrought iron bridge with planks that go clickety-clack as your car moves over them. We were going to the Eriska Hotel, just north of Oban, through a landscape where mountains plunge into the sea, and Mull floats on the horizon.

The Eriska Hotel is one of those Scottish Baronial glories, or monstrosities, depending on your taste. Built by a Frenchman, it has a crenellated tower, but inside everything is of the utmost comfort. Bedrooms are much canopied and carpeted. When we were there it was so full we ended up in the modern Spa Suites, built in the old staff cottages, which meant we had power showers, flat-screen TVs in every room, and a view over the golf course to the sea.

One puzzling artefact was in the garden of our spa cottage: an outdoor hot tub, where surely in summer one would become a sort of ready-made stew for the midges. But then deep in the undergrowth we discovered one of the new-fangled midge-killing machines.

We did not take our children, but the hotel does have a fantastic kid-friendly indoor swimming pool with windows that open on to the garden. We took one walk up a small mountain, which earned an early cocktail in the wood-panelled bar with its leather armchairs and open fire.

I knew, as we went in for dinner, that it was a very good sign that the head waiter was French — he came here, liked the scenery and the community, and never left. The food was fantastic: fresh and local — diver scallops, langoustines, turbot, plus Gressingham duck and serious British cheeses.

After dinner, the bar staff put out peanuts and milk on the terrace, and two badgers and a cat — who lives with them — arrived for dinner in the dark. We stared amazed, and wondered how much we’d had to drink.

Bottom line: Kate Muir paid £260 for a double, B&B, but there are weekend specials on the website.

Sampling the fare: Three-course dinner, cheese and coffee for two, £77.

Access all areas: Two bedrooms with disabled facilities on ground floor.

Need to know: Isle of Eriska Hotel, Ledaig, by Oban, Argyll (01631 720371, www.eriska-hotel.co.uk).

Room: 8 out of 10.

Food: 8 out of 10.

Service: 9 out of 10.

12 classic Scottish island stories

The travel editor at Times Online delves into the collection to choose his favourite recent features on the Scottish islands

BACKGROUND

• Ardanaiseig Hotel, Kilchrenan, Argyll & Bute

• Loch Fyne Hotel, Inverary, Argyll

• Airds Hotel, Port Appin, Argyll

• Isle of Eriska Hotel, Ledaig, Argyll

• The George, Inveraray, Argyll

BACKGROUND

• Anchor Hotel, Tarbert, Argyll

• Craigard House Hotel, Campbeltown, Argyll

• Carradale Hotel, Carradale, Argyll

• Balinakill Country House, Clachan, Argyll

Related Internet Links

• More Argyll hotel reviews

Related Links

• The George, Inveraray, Argyll

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