When my dad was young, he climbed Ben Lomond at night to watch the sunrise. Silly man. This is Scotland, and all he saw from the 3,192ft summit was a faint glow among dark clouds that soon fulfilled their promise of torrential rain.

A more comfortable viewpoint now lies on the opposite shore of Loch Lomond, in the form of a hotel with the ambiance of a ski lodge-cum-houseboat. The Lodge on Loch Lomond Hotel is so close to the water’s edge that from the bedrooms the impression is of being on the water. The illusion is enhanced by waves lapping beneath private balconies with sweeping views of the Ben towering above wooded islets.

These are the famed ‘bonnie banks’ of the largest body of fresh water in the British Isles, 23 miles long with 38 named islands, where yew trees reputedly planted by King Robert the Bruce still stand. On the far shore there is a cave where local hero Rob Roy is said to have hidden from pursuers.

It is an impossibly romantic place, with a spell-binding beauty in all weathers, adorned with a picture postcard village of stone cottages that featured in the Scottish soap opera Take the High Road. The village of Luss with its old wooden pier is only a few minutes stroll from the hotel, and is ideally placed as a stopover for visitors taking the high road to the western highlands and islands.

The family-owned lodge began as a cheap and cheerful hostelry with nine rooms in the early 90s, but expansion and upgrading has resulted in a 56-room eco-friendly complex of Canadian pine and sandstone brick, with a spa and a two AA star restaurant, favoured by two former US presidents.

The reception sets the alpine tone with wood-lined walls, deep leather armchairs, an imperious stuffed eagle in a glass case, and a black labrador as often as not stretched out by an open fire. Accolades on display include Les Routiers Scotland Hotel of the Year, and a letter from Rosalynn and Jimmy Carter thanking the staff for their hospitality. (A framed photo of the staff with a beaming Bill Clinton is along the corridor).

Head past two small black cannons, presumably there to deal with sworn enemies of Rob Roy, to enter a spacious open-plan lounge and dining room with panoramic views over the loch.

Canny folk from Glasgow, barely an hour away, have long prized the fare in Colquhoun’s restaurant where three courses featuring dishes such as a spicy fish tian and pheasant breast filled with venison can be had for the princely sum of £29.95. The early days of lasagne and chips are long gone.

Given its evolution in stages, the lodge is a hotchpotch of styles. The rooms in the main building are more rustic charm than cool contemporary, with pine wood panelling and a pleasing oddity – en-suite saunas. Small but cosy, the waterfront rooms have wooden balconies over the loch and are windows on arguably one of the finest views in Scotland. There are plasma TV screens and wi-fi broadband in every room, and one wonders why.

The more modern apartments in an annex a few steps away boast even bigger TVs, surround sound systems, touch-button baths with temperature and volume controls, massage showers, and soothing neutral fabrics. An advantage is that the ‘Amberspa’ is in the same building, allowing guests to don bathrobes and wander off for holistic pampering.

Given the romantic setting, weddings are big business with nuptials taking place in the hotel or in a quaint old village church, and a piper is on call to lead bridal parties along the shore. For high flyers on special occasions, a seaplane is available for sightseeing flights.

Almost half of the lodge’s guests have been before, and one reason they keep coming back is probably the service. The staff are all local, and attentive and friendly in the down to earth west of Scotland way. “Now a wee bit more pudding will no’ do ye any harm, sir.” They say they look forward to coming to work, and it shows.

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