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The windows of room 652 give me a whiff of Hogwarts school for wizards. Two tiny apertures high up in the wall look out on to the cornices and cupolas of the century-old roof, while a pair of round windows frame a stunning view of the Edinburgh skyline. Squint and you could almost imagine Hermione curled up with a spell book on the windowsill.
It was in this room that J. K. Rowling finished Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows in January. I sit at the modern desk where, presumably, she put an end to either Harry or He Who Must Not Be Named. Then I plump down on the beige sofa, the dark leather chairs, and the soft bed with its leather headboard, just in case she doesn’t write at a desk.
But for a mere muggle like myself, the room doesn’t hold much magic: because it’s so big, the contemporary furnishing looks sparse, although that leaves a lot of space for pacing and inspiration seeking.
Facilities are lacking: J. K. would have needed to pay for the internet, and there’s nothing with which she could have made a cuppa mid-chapter.
In the dated bathroom, there’s a brown stain around the bottom of the loo (has Moaning Myrtle been here?), no separate shower, and scales that are ridiculously kind. Elsewhere, the decor works well – in the calming lobby, with its cream marble and muted tones; in the Bollinger bar, with its wooden floor and chandelier; and in the lime-green brasserie, where magnificent Scottish breakfasts are served.
For dinner, it’s the more traditional Michelin-starred Number One, where the five choices of bread on offer are a harbinger of the joys to come. The smoked and cured foie gras with squash purée works well as a prelude to halibut, Scottish lobster and caviar cream, although the white chocolate and passion fruit tart is exactly that – a bit tart.
My toddler is with me: child friendliness is another of the hotel’s fortes and it’s at their suggestion that I take him. They could also have arranged a babysitter or served a kids’ menu in the room, where they later bring warm milk. The friendly staff can’t cluck over him enough.
Although there’s no play-room and the pool isn’t great for tinies, the staff bring us a toybox. Older children can request mocktails, computer games and – something child-friendly J. K. would approve of – Harry Potter books on loan.
Bottom line: Jane Knight paid £285 for room 652. Full Scottish breakfast is £18.50pp. Dinner for one in the Michelin-starred restaurant with wine plus a child’s meal cost £72.25.
Need to know: The Balmoral Hotel, 1 Princes Street, Edinburgh (0131-556 2414, www.thebalmoralhotel.com).
Sampling the fare: Local produce used to its best effect, both in the
bistro and restaurant.
Access all areas: Three rooms for the disabled.
Best thing: The food.
Worst thing: The bathrooms.
Room: 5 out of 10.
Food: 9 out of 10.
Service: 8 out of 10.
Value: 6 out of 10.
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