Samuel Johnson was not greatly impressed by Scotland. After his tour of the western highlands and islands in 1773, he concluded grumpily that the most noble prospect a Scotchman perceives is the high road to England.

Had he stopped off at the Drovers Inn near Loch Lomond, he might have formed a more favourable impression. This venerable hostelry had been open for almost 70 years at the time of Johnson’s visit, and had welcomed such local luminaries as Rob Roy MacGregor as well as a motley cavalcade of kilted outlaws, English redcoats and drovers herding highland cattle to southern markets.

Were any of them to step through the doors of the inn today, chances are they’d recognise the place. Never mind the stuffed grizzly bear or the snarling wolf guarding the reception desk, it’s the lamb with two heads that sets the wacky tone of what has become a haven for hikers tramping the 100-mile West Highland Way from Glasgow to Fort William.

The main building of rough-hewn stone framed by the hills of Argyll has a higgledy-piggledy collection of 11 rooms with an eclectic array of furnishings that appear to have come from antique shops and house clearances. This is certainly true of Stringer’s Suite, the best room in the house which boasts the Duke of Argyll’s bed, obtained after a clear-out of the clan chieftain’s seat at Inveraray Castle. At the foot of this lumpy, cosy old bed there is a wondrous modern convenience – a double-sized jacuzzi bath enclosed by a four-poster frame draped in tartan.

Our dogs loved the warm, well-worn feel of the place. None of your namby-pamby health and safety hysteria here – dogs are welcome in all areas providing they behave themselves, which means you’ll often find a couple curled up by open fires in the wooden-floored bars where food is served.

Some online reviews by guests roundly condemn the inn for being dirty and run-down (see tripadvisor), but while they have cause for complaint they may be missing the point. There is nothing fancy about the Drovers Inn. It is an old fashioned, rough and ready hostelry that dispels the chills of the dreichest Scots weather with hearty fare and live music - the Scotch broth and haggis have been an ambrosia to many a long-distance walker. This is not a contrived Scottish theme pub, it is the genuine article that celebrated its 300th anniversary with t-shirts proclaiming: "Scottish Pub of the Year 1705".

The only jarring note is struck by kilted staff who come from such famous clan fiefdoms as Utah, Sydney and Gdansk, and are not all familiar with traditional highland hospitality. It would be nice to hear a lilting Scots accent among them.

The entertainers in the Drovers Howf, the main lounge bar, are more local with a typical dry sense of humour. In between rousing folk songs like "The Bonnets o’ Bonnie Dundee", our strolling player for the night, Denis Alexander, observed: “It disnae look as if this floor’s been swept since Culloden” (The 18th century battle that routed Bonnie Prince Charlie’s highland army). He may have been right, but the atmosphere is informal and friendly, and conversations fuelled by a fine range of malt whiskies start easily between adjacent tables.

Less earthy attractions include a girl who drowned in the nearby loch, and whose ghost is said to haunt room 6. A member of staff assured us that no matter how many heaters are put in this spooky lair, it is always cold. In spite of this - or more likely because of it – it is the most popular room in the inn, drawing a stream of spiritual mediums and ghost hunters.

Those less inclined to spend the night with spectres and old guns and swords can sleep in a modern annex across the road called the Stagger Inn, which has small rooms with four-poster beds ranged around a courtyard.

This is where breakfast is served, in a "sports bar" beneath a metal shark with a bat in its mouth suspended from the ceiling. I found this much more interesting than a wide-screen TV blaring out Sky News, which a waitress switched off on request. Look out for the bright, silly paintings of kilted Scots climbing hills, skiing down them, and riding mopeds. And be careful you don’t bump into the knight in less than shining armour when you’re checking out.

Zany to the last, this place is. Even crusty old Dr Johnson might have warmed to its rusticity.

Bottom line: doubles are from £68 with breakfast. Stringer’s Suite is £120.

Best thing: the atmosphere

Worst thing: Aussies in kilts

Access all areas: all public rooms and one bedroom with en-suite facilities in the annex.

Need to know: The Drovers Inn, Inverarnan by Ardlui, North Loch Lomond (01301.704234, www.thedroversinn.co.uk).

Food: 6 out of 10

Service: 6 out of 10

Room: 7 out of 10

Value: 7 out of 10

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