INVERARY is a staging post from Glasgow to Oban and onto the Inner Hebridean islands. Which is why we stayed in town on a previous visit to Mull. And this time, on the way to Islay and Jura, we stopped off again in Inverary and tried out the Loch Fyne Hotel.

The Loch Fyne Hotel is a brisk walk away from town, around the bend and directly overlooking the loch. Park the car and head to the entrance, but turn around before you enter for the view across the water to hills rising on the far bank unblemished by man or holiday cottage.

Hotel owner Paddy Crerar did the same thing nine years ago on his way to Islay. “It was then a small, privately owned family hotel which exuded hospitality, but above all I was absolutely captivated by the view.”

And so he bought it - and now he has added the must-have spa facility (two rooms, an outdoor tub and hairdressing), as well as in June, 2007, an extended restaurant. Now he could do with turning his attention to the swimming pool adjoining the hotel, which looks a bit dated by comparison.

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BACKGROUND

• Ardanaiseig Hotel, Kilchrenan, Argyll & Bute

• Loch Fyne Hotel, Inverary, Argyll

• Airds Hotel, Port Appin, Argyll

• Isle of Eriska Hotel, Ledaig, Argyll

• The George, Inveraray, Argyll

BACKGROUND

• Anchor Hotel, Tarbert, Argyll

• Craigard House Hotel, Campbeltown, Argyll

• Carradale Hotel, Carradale, Argyll

• Balinakill Country House, Clachan, Argyll

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While Paddy called by on a cold winter’s day, we arrived at 7.30pm in early September with the light at its brilliant best, the colours still green and nature beginning to think of donning a gold and russet dress.

“We can only give you a table for dinner at 8.30pm, said the cheery Scots receptionist, by way of an apology, which happily gave us time for a shower and drink. Having booked late, the only room available was a suite, the Balvennie, which - if you lean out of the window - has a view of the lake to the right of the new restaurant roof below.

There are 71 rooms, 12 of which connect and eight of which have a view over the water. The tartan carpet and bedcover is a furnishing theme which proves much in evidence throughout the hotel. Campbell tartan, presumably, this being the domain of the Duke of Argyll over the road.

After a precarious shower in a roll top bath with wraparound curtain, we head for the bar which is packed with jolly oldies on a coach outing and by now onto coffee. That’s why 8.30 is the earliest we could get. By now, there are only five couples left, with another two in the adjoining bistro.

We choose from the a la carte menu and service is quick and very efficient from the predominantly Polish staff. A starter for me of Stornaway Benedict - muffin, black pudding and Hollandaise sauce - but nothing for my wife, Lizzie, apart from a forkful of mine. Very good.

Rack of lamb came with spinach and creamy mash, the scallops wrapped in bacon on a bed of fennel. Both were excellent, again served with panache and alacrity. What a difference good service makes to a place you’re not sure about, muses Lizzie.

We opt for coffee outside and it’s there in a jiffy as we are still settling in for an appreciative sweep of the stars in the black sky and the stillness of the lake. "If you take your coffee outside, be sure to go for a table with an umbrella - the birds which nest in the Virginia Creeper have a devastating aim," my wife suggested I write in my notes as she reached for a napkin.

The bar being dead by 10.30pm, we retired early. On second sight, the room is still awkwardly designed, with a huge chunk cut out of its rectangular shape for the bathroom. But it’s quiet, the bed is big and firm and the pillows generous.

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