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From The Times

September 4, 2004

Airds Hotel, Port Appin, Argyll

Three-quarters of guests return to this gourmet village hotel, finds Steve Keenan

First impressions

Whitewashed, three AA rosette hotel on the edge of the village, with small conservatory looking out on well-kept lawns, and with glorious views over Loch Linnhe. Two lounges, one smoking. Art for sale on the walls.

Why it’s special

The chef, Paul Burns, has been here three years and his peers voted him this year’s Scottish hotel chef of the year. The owners, Sue and Shaun, arrived two years ago: they had stayed at the Airds several times and jumped at the chance to buy. It’s comfortable and classy with efficient, discreet service.

Hitting the sack

There are 12 rooms, with complimentary whisky macs, flatscreen TVs and DVDs from reception. Crisp linen, comfy pillows: a good night’s sleep.

Sampling the fare

Five starters and mains change daily. Mains include free range guinea fowl, wild salmon, seafood from Cuil Bay. Burns plunders the natural larder of Argyll, with a mushrooming weekend this month to pick chanterelles and angel wings. Campari sorbet and home-made muesli among the breakfast offers, with lemon curd on the table, fresh orange juice and coffee.

Star attraction

Stella McCartney had her honeymoon here last year; a young Tony Blair and Richard Branson have stayed. And Meg, who makes soups and fruitcakes and who tends the flowers, has worked at the Airds for 60 years.

Added attractions

Gourmet nights, culinary and painting weekends all planned and garden breaks to follow. A five-minute walk to the jetty and passenger ferry to Lismore Island.

What we think

It’s no surprise that 72 per cent of visitors are either return guests or have been recommended by guests. Sue and Shaun have retained the spirit and are upgrading quietly. A place for a culinary stay and a great base for exploring the western Highlands.

Bottom line

Rooms from £230, dinner, bed and breakfast. Will take B&B only in quieter months.

Need to know

Airds Hotel, Port Appin, Argyll (01631 730236, www.airds-hotel.com).