First impressions

The hotel exterior lends itself more to Bond baddie lair because of its unyielding yellowing stone façade and lean dark windows, than its true history as a Greek Orthodox church. The only evidence of its past is three lines of Greek inscription high above the black iron-barred door.

Once your eyes have adjusted to the moody dark lobby, a soft velvet cushioned booth in one corner invites you to sit down and enjoy a paper or fashionable magazine, but first there's an enthusiastic receptionist to deal with. The service was efficient except for the requested morning newspaper that never arrived, but didn't feature on the bill.

Why it's special

Bold Gothic-style décor, with tons of inviting velvet, rich dark hues and arresting paintwork and flooring in black and gold chessboard style, means your first impressions of the striking exterior are not deflated once you get inside.

The Malmaison brand is adept at having fun, from the candlelit champagne bar in an elegant atrium, to hearing David Bowie's Jean Genie over breakfast on Saturday morning, it makes guests feel like they're saying somewhere cool and exclusive, while keeping rates below the £100-mark.

Its quiet location belies the hotel's relative proximity to the city centre - it's under ten minute's walk to the shopping around Buchanan Street and Glasgow's finest attraction - The Glasgow School of Art on Renfrew Street.

Hitting the sack

The 64 rooms and eight suites include some rooms with French windows and mezzanine floors. The beds have stylish padded leather headboards and crisp white cotton linen, although the duvets are too effective for a hotel that doesn't have air-conditioning. All rooms have flat-screen television, CD and DVD player, tasteful monochrome décor and plug-in internet, which like the wireless internet in the hotel lobby and bar, is free to access.

Monochrome continues throughout the bathroom, which has rain-soak showers, either over or separate to a bath, and generous bottles of customised Malmaison toiletries that guests are encouraged to take away.

Sampling the fare

A modern menu with local additions such as seared Scottish scallops and Scottish Angus sirloin that comes in steaks weighing up to 400 grams. Main dishes cost £11-£30 and an in-house sommelier helps with wine, which starts at a £15 a bottle. The brasserie and bar occupy a former crypt, its vaulted ceiling now painted burgundy red, with twisted ironwork and wooden partitions separating tables lined along a chocolate brown leather banquette on one side and studded leather dining chairs along the other.

It's most atmospheric when candlelit in the evenings, preceded by a cocktail at the adjoining bar, or champagne at the dedicated bar. For a group of up to 12, the private dining room, separated by frosted glass and walled on one side by wine racks, is a fun option.

Access all areas

There is no designated parking, but spaces opposite the hotel include a disabled parking bay. There is a ramp at the entrance and rooms on each floor with bathrooms designed for wheelchair users.

Added attractions

A token gym has cardio-vascular machines and weights. The free internet and room service that comes without a mandatory service charge, means there's less likelihood of nasty shocks on the bill.

What we think

The hotel looks good for its ten years - aided by a recent revamp - and if prices stay reasonable guests will continue to feel they're getting a contemporary boutique night away for good value. It's just a shame they haven't teamed up with a local spa to offer in-room treatments.

Bottom line

Room-only from £99 including VAT.

Need to know

Malmaison Glasgow, 278 West George St, Glasgow, G2 4LL. Tel. 0141 572 1000, www.malmaison-glasgow.com

Marks Hotel, Glasgow

The interior is funky but the food is a flop, says The Times' Mystery Guest

BACKGROUND

• Hotel Du Vin at One Devonshire Gardens, Glasgow

• Malmaison Glasgow

• Mar Hall, Bishopton, near Glasgow

• Abode, Bath Street, Glasgow

• Radisson SAS, Glasgow

Related Internet Links

• More reviews of Glasgow hotels

Times recommends

• Overlanding then and now
• Live Q&A: ski fitness and injury
• Get the right payment card and deny Ryanair its hefty fee