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From The Times

October 7, 2006

Hotel Du Vin at One Devonshire Gardens, Glasgow

The Times sends a writer under the covers

By Nicola Smith

This sprawling old building in Glasgow’s West End has just been taken into the Hotel du Vin stable. Rooms are being refurbished and my “Classic” had just been revamped. It was spacious and luxurious, if a little dark in various shades of blue, with two armchairs as well as a comfortable king-size bed. As well as all the usual mod cons, there was an electronic putting device to entertain insomniacs. As I unpacked, the strains of Pavarotti began drifting around the room.

The bathroom provided the real wow factor. Big enough to be another bedroom, it was well lit and spacious with a deep marble-surround bath that submerged me up to my ears as I wallowed in the bubbles with Pavarotti.

The main change to this five-star hotel is the extension to its restaurant, which has expanded its capacity by about three times and can now accommodate 78 guests. I had drinks in the cosy bar, again decked out in deep blues and dark woods, with friends before dinner. As we greeted each other, Jo’s eccentric handbag sent my glass of merlot spinning, spilling a pool of red all over the wooden table. The barman cleared it with minimal fuss, presenting us with a replacement as a “bonus” for not breaking the glass.

But service, which promised much, went downhill. The dining area is in three adjoining rooms, each giving an intimate but relaxed feel. Staff were willing to please, but seemed to lack direction. We were asked the same questions by different staff; a side salad failed to arrive without a reminder; and when we asked one waiter for a rest after our main course, another promptly arrived armed with dessert menus.

My lobster ravioli starter was beautiful, but was, literally, one lone piece of ravioli. The canon of lamb was also perfectly done, but consisted of about four mouthfuls. It was served on what appeared to be granite slate. The sound effect was not dissimilar to fingernails on a blackboard as I wielded my cutlery. Jo’s halibut was a hit and the crème brûlée left James in raptures. We finished with a mouth-watering array of cheeses. The food was undoubtedly good and certainly left me wanting more — but partly because I was still hungry.

After an undisturbed night’s sleep in my vast bed, I chose the continental breakfast and was presented with an ample spread of cereals, toast, pastries and prunes, but I still struggle to understand how any hotel can charge £14 for such simple fare — no matter how many prunes you get.

Bottom line: Nicola Smith paid £200 for a Classic room.

Sampling the fare: two courses for £32pp without wine. Continental breakfast £14, cooked £17.50.

What we think: Chilled-out grandeur close to city centre.

Best thing: Luxurious rooms.

Worst thing: Chaotic service.

Access all areas: Yes.

Need to know: Hotel du Vin at One Devonshire Gardens (0141-339 2001, www.onedevonshiregardens.com), Glasgow .

Room: 9 out of 10.

Food: 7 out of 10.

Service: 5 out of 10.