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You might think that coming to a hotel with “Manor” in its name would involve lime avenues, park railings and a certain amount of topiary. But this is really a substantial villa – built by a clergyman, Canon Venables, in 1835 – on one of the steep cliffs of the southern Isle of Wight, with decorated bargeboards to its gables and a conservatory instead of an entrance porch.
There are two churches in the village, both dedicated to St Bonifare, a Saxon who preached in these parts. The poet Algernon Charles Swinburne is buried in one of them. He also grew up here, and there is talk of wild parties at what is now the hotel.
Bonchurch remains a bit different from other seaside hotels. What sets it apart is the food. Shuba Rao, who comes from southern India, prepares it in the highly spiced style of her homeland. If your palate has been expecting a helping of cod and chips, it is in for a rude awakening.
This is food with big flavours, freshly cooked, using local ingredients such as Isle of Wight beef for the beef Tamil. There is a lot of deep-frying going on, but the vegetables will please your doctor. If the Michelin Guide cared about proper food, rather than the degree of starch in the napkins, it would give Bonchurch a star. Having ordered the most expensive bottle of claret on the wine list (£35), I went to bed happy.
I woke up thirsty. Where was a bottle of water? Not to be found. And that is the problem with this hotel: excellent food, lovely people, but bedrooms that don’t betray the considerable investment that the owners have made in the hotel since buying it four years ago. The upstairs decor remains bleak and not very functional.
For example, I had to get out of bed to switch on the light.
But Bonchurch has its compensations. In the morning I went off to explore the island. The village has charm: a blacksmith’s forge that seems to double as a gym, and what I suspect may be a good restaurant in the Pond Café. I got back to a superb breakfast, made from local, free-range produce. The coffee was excellent.
The owners know that this is not a traditional seaside hotel. It appeals to Londoners looking for second homes, who, if successful, have no further need of hotel rooms. Not everything about the service has been cracked. Despite a confirmed reservation, I wasn’t expected when I arrived. Did Icare? Not by the time I left. I would come back with the children if only they would eat spicy food.
Bottom line: Clive Aslet paid £119.13 for an en suite double room,
including dinner and breakfast.
Need to know: Bonchurch Manor Hotel, Bonchurch Shute, Bonchurch, Isle
of Wight PO38 1NU (01983 852868, www.bonchurchmanor.com).
Sampling the fare: Southern Indian cuisine was memorable.
Best thing: Food.
Worst thing: Dismal bedroom.
Access all areas: Yes.
Room: 3 out of 10.
Food: 10 out of 10.
Service: 9 out of 10.
Value: 7 out of 10.
Explore your passion for food with the delights of Thai, Indian & Chinese cooking
Stayed here about eight years ago with my wife, daughter in law and grand-daughter. Had a lovely time. Good food, excellent service and beautiful surroundings. Would go again as it is in a quiet and peaceful location yet the main attractions on the IoW are easily reached.
p Evans, Wigan,
We have been to Bonchurch several times and would be more than happy to go again. The food was excellent and so was the service. I would highly recommend it and just can't understand why people moan so much.
Why would someone want to go to such a stunning place and worry about the TV in his room, get a life!!!
Ms. Gibson, Hastings,
I agree with Jill Coningham's comments. We recently stayed at Bonchurch Manor and paid £80 per night for a pokey back bedroom which looked like it had been furnished at some point in the late seventies. Our bed was extremely uncomfortable. and we were treated to a discoloured portable television and frayed fringing on chairs. All it needed was a Bob Marley poster on the wall and it would have passed for student digs.Boutique style it was not.
The breakfast was lovely, however and the public rooms spacious and airy. The waiting staff were friendly, efficient and very helpful. The gardens are charming with their sea-views and no doubt, when all the bedrooms have been refurbished it will be well worth a return visit. Untill then, it seems to be pot-luck what type of experience you have.
Angus Mc Vicar, Guildford, UK
We recently stayed at the Bonchurch Manor and would return without hesitation. We were pleased to find a hotel of this standard that took children under the age of 12 and looked welcoming and tasteful. And it was exactly that. Our bedroom was very large, as was the en-suite bathroom. The decor is simple/elegant/ethnic which only added to the relaxing atmosphere. The food was superb - I challenge anyone to find a better english breakfast and the South Indian cuisine was delicious. The service was of a high standard and even when the restuarant and bar were closed on Sunday, we were able to get drinks and coffee late at night in the lounge. I am surprised by the negative comments that have been made about this hotel. I would recommend it to anyone and look forward to returning soon.
Alison Schur, Reigate, Surrey
We were very surprised at Clive Aslet's comments about the rooms. We had a marvellous room, furnished in style completely appropriate to the ambience of Bonchurch Manor - light, airy and uncluttered. And why would anyone want a bottle of water in the bedroom, when there was an unlimited supply from the tap?.
Derek Done, Marlow, UK
I'm also a regular visitor to Bonchurch Manor. Why? Because it's not like any ordinary seaside hotel - Clive Aslet is right in that respect.And also about the Southern Indian cuisine. Although the Tiffin Room is not open every evening (Shuba does deserve some time off!) there are other local eating venues - right next door is a homely French style pub with al fresco dining (the home-made pizzas are also worth a mention!).
The standard of the rooms at BM compares favourably with other hotels I've stayed in and they are reasonably priced considering you get an organic breakfast thrown in. And who needs bottled water - tea and coffee making eqpt and a television are quite functional enough for me!
It's a seaside experience with a cultural twist - relaxing in the beautifully maintained gardens that extend along the front of the villa - having tea or sipping drinks before getting ready for one of Shuba's delicious Indian dishes - Mmm! I'm wishing I was back there already.
Anne Jagger, London, England
I posted my comments yesterday on this website and they do not appear to be listed with the others. Seeing I have stayed at Bonchurch several times over the last couple of years I feel it is important that my comments are added. The atmosphere and service is excellent. The family make you feel welcome and the 'Manor' has a very nice aura about it. The location is idyllic and therefore it does not matter what the weather is like. The food is second to none and the breakfast in the morning prepared as requested is also most enjoyable. On each of the occasions that I have stayed it makes me feel alive and refreshed and able to tackle the hustle and bustle of London. I will continue to visit the 'Manor' all being equal at least 1-2 times p.a. I have referred the 'Manor' to both family and work colleagues to visit and will continue to do so. For people who do not propose to go back it's their loss.
Sandra Davidson, London,
We enjoy coming to this hotel often and have stayed in several rooms there. The only time we have had to stay in the smaller rooms at the back was when all the other large and airy rooms were booked and that is pretty much till the end of September, as we found out !! The decor is variable and the price charged (£42 pppn) was fine, as we have stayed in smaller rooms for a higher price in other parts of UK. We suspect that just the breakfast they serve would cost them a good portion of the room price !
So I was a bit surprised to read Mr Asletâs comments which I thought was unfair and too sweeping. It would be nice if journalists spent more time listening to and writing about the stories behind these small businesses so that they are supported rather than nit picking on minor issues.
Ivetka, London,
We had a very pleasant stay here recently. Our room was perfectly adequate and had a very comfortable bed. Agree with Clive about the food - although we also had some excellent meals locally. The wine list was good value.
Bonchurch itself was a fascinating place and we will return.
Douglas Belton, London, UK
I have stayed at bonchurch manor several times with my husband and friends and found it a refreshing change from the stuffy,bland,stuck up boutique hotels we now find every where. With staff more concerned with how they look than good service. Everyone needs to start some where and we thought they have done exceptionally well for having no experience of the hotel trade. Staying with them was akin to visiting family although you did have to pay for the experience. The cost was reasonable and nothing was too much trouble for them to do for us. I guess at the end of the day it comes down to personal preference, we will definitely be staying again it seems to get better each time.
K.Fleary, London,
I can only say mr. evans went to the wrong place
I have been going to BornChurch Manor For the last three years on short breaks and i have been throughly pleased with
with the service provided By Shuba and mark , I always get this home from home feeling. I have alway enjoyed the south Indian Cuisine cooked by shuba and the family breakfast in the morning.
Garfield Trusty, Crystal Palace,
Although I agree in principle with Clive's review and the southern Indian food is delicious, the menu does not change and guests staying for three nights may wish that there was an alternative menu.
The rooms leave something to be desired and our bed was certainly past its sell-by date.
The service was pleasant.
Jill Coningham, London, UK
Oh dear. You'll be in trouble for writing a review with any criticism at all. I wrote one, which agrees 100% with this one, and got a bucket of acid in response.
Kay Ties, York, UK
Have to disagree with your review about Bonchurch Manor.
We stayed there with the current owners about three years ago only to find they did not do evening meals, nor did they do the Southern India food. We ordered poached egg on toast only to have it served up on a full sized white dinner plate running round the plate alone looking very pathetic and not very appealing. With the food being poor and the room awful no way would we visit again.
B. Evans, Osterley,