You might think that coming to a hotel with “Manor” in its name would involve lime avenues, park railings and a certain amount of topiary. But this is really a substantial villa – built by a clergyman, Canon Venables, in 1835 – on one of the steep cliffs of the southern Isle of Wight, with decorated bargeboards to its gables and a conservatory instead of an entrance porch.

There are two churches in the village, both dedicated to St Bonifare, a Saxon who preached in these parts. The poet Algernon Charles Swinburne is buried in one of them. He also grew up here, and there is talk of wild parties at what is now the hotel.

Bonchurch remains a bit different from other seaside hotels. What sets it apart is the food. Shuba Rao, who comes from southern India, prepares it in the highly spiced style of her homeland. If your palate has been expecting a helping of cod and chips, it is in for a rude awakening.

This is food with big flavours, freshly cooked, using local ingredients such as Isle of Wight beef for the beef Tamil. There is a lot of deep-frying going on, but the vegetables will please your doctor. If the Michelin Guide cared about proper food, rather than the degree of starch in the napkins, it would give Bonchurch a star. Having ordered the most expensive bottle of claret on the wine list (£35), I went to bed happy.

I woke up thirsty. Where was a bottle of water? Not to be found. And that is the problem with this hotel: excellent food, lovely people, but bedrooms that don’t betray the considerable investment that the owners have made in the hotel since buying it four years ago. The upstairs decor remains bleak and not very functional.

For example, I had to get out of bed to switch on the light.

But Bonchurch has its compensations. In the morning I went off to explore the island. The village has charm: a blacksmith’s forge that seems to double as a gym, and what I suspect may be a good restaurant in the Pond Café. I got back to a superb breakfast, made from local, free-range produce. The coffee was excellent.

The owners know that this is not a traditional seaside hotel. It appeals to Londoners looking for second homes, who, if successful, have no further need of hotel rooms. Not everything about the service has been cracked. Despite a confirmed reservation, I wasn’t expected when I arrived. Did Icare? Not by the time I left. I would come back with the children if only they would eat spicy food.

Bottom line: Clive Aslet paid £119.13 for an en suite double room, including dinner and breakfast.
Need to know: Bonchurch Manor Hotel, Bonchurch Shute, Bonchurch, Isle of Wight PO38 1NU (01983 852868, www.bonchurchmanor.com).
Sampling the fare: Southern Indian cuisine was memorable.
Best thing: Food.
Worst thing: Dismal bedroom.
Access all areas: Yes.
Room: 3 out of 10.
Food: 10 out of 10.
Service: 9 out of 10.
Value: 7 out of 10.

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