Until recently, the George in Rye was the sort of hotel where your granny might have a been a regular. A big coaching inn dating from 1575 in the high street of this slightly twee medieval town in East Sussex, it was much in need of a makeover. Now it has had one — but would what once worked for ye olde clientele now cut the mustard with a family of four seeking the best of modern British?

Family rooms have been sited across the inner courtyard — renovated with herringbone brick and decking, ideal for summer dining. The hotel’s new owners are Alex and Katie Clarke, and all 24 rooms, individually designed by Katie, a former TV and film set designer, certainly produce the wow factor. There’s nothing twee about plasma wall-mounted TV screens, Tivoli radios or a striking oval antique mirror. The neutral colour scheme is enlivened with touches of sky blue, elegant but funky lighting, embroidered silk cushions, and prints by local artists.

The restaurant menu isn’t particularly child-friendly, but a request for homemade burgers and chunky fries from the bar menu was no problem, and the head waiter, Lucca, rustled up ice-cream with “red wine sauce” — something sweet, sticky and possibly out of a plastic bottle, but who cares?

Local seasonal produce features prominently — anything else would be a crime in this neck of the woods — including Romney Marsh lamb and Rye Bay plaice. The head chef used to work at the London restaurant Moro, whose co-proprietor, Sam Clarke, is Alex’s sister. Savoy cabbage, chestnuts and lardons was a worthy winter starter; tender strips of squid were slightly overwhelmed by the accompanying chilli. Mains were more like it — a chunk of duck breast served with a dome of diced celeriac, carrot, savoy cabbage, plus a dollop of cranberry. My husband was pleased with his oxtail stew with curly kale and mash.

Deep chocolate walls and striking funnel-shaped lights create an intimate feel in the dining room, but despite Lucca’s lively presence there was something subdued about the atmosphere.

For my money the bar’s the place. With wooden beams fashioned from 16th-century ships’ masts and handsome 1930s panelling, it has a life of its own, with a great range of real ales, ciders and wines.

Nit-pickers might say that the service, though friendly, isn’t quite up to speed — yet. But, all in all, the George has pulled it off.

Bottom line: £358.55 for drinks, dinner, bed and breakfast in adjoining rooms for a family of four.

What we think: Lively, stylish.

Best thing: Child-friendly.

Worst thing: Reservation process haphazard, setting low expectation for service overall.

Access all areas: Bar and one ground-floor bedroom, one step down to restaurant.

Need to know: The George in Rye (01797 222114, www.thegeorgeinrye.com ), 98 High Street.

Service: 7 out of 10.

Room: 9 out of 10.

Food: 7 out of 10.

Value: 9 out of 10.

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