You couldn’t get much closer to the River Thames without being in it: in fact, we are about 15 feet above it. We’re on the private decking of Room 39 in Sir Christopher Wren’s House Hotel. We sip G&Ts and admire the swans dibbling below, so startlingly white that I think they must be an advert for some revolutionary new washing powder (By Appointment to Her Majesty the Queen, of course). HRH is just up the hill in her official residence of Windsor, the oldest and largest occupied castle in the world.

As well as Her Majesty’s swans, skeins of Canada geese come honking in to join the mallards and a single coot on the water. It’s a wonderful place to watch the river go by with its traffic of kayaks and canoes, sculls and rowing eights, narrow boats and pleasure craft of every description.

It would have been bliss... except for the aircraft coming in to land at Heathrow, so low that I’m convinced that Her Majesty must be a plane spotting anorak, otherwise One wouldn't have stood for it.

The core of Sir Christopher Wren’s House Hotel is the house that was designed, built and lived in by the eponymous great English architect, who was also responsible for St Paul’s Cathedral, the Greenwich Observatory and Hampton Court. The 96-bedroom hotel was bought a decade ago by former racing driver turned entrepreneur Goran Strok, who also owns The Christopher, a 33 room boutique hotel in Eton, and six more in his native Croatia.

The staff are young, efficient and from all over – Turkey, Poland, South Africa. A nice touch in reception was the complimentary copies of The Independent. I’m pleased we were shown to our room through the rabbit warren of narrow window and airless corridors. I’d have never found it.

I began to think the worst but we stepped into a large room with huge bed, plasma screen TV on the wall, walk-in closet, desk and chair. However, the Research Assistant’s first impression was underwhelming – the room was grey with black and white prints of Eastern temples and big-breasted exotic gods on the walls.

A separate bathroom was up a couple of steps – this had no windows but the bright lighting, a huge wall mirror and white tiles made it didn;t feel confined. Molton Brown unguents and big, fluffy white towel dressing gowns began to get RA on side, although the shower lacked the thumping torrent of pressure that I like and I thought the sprig of plastic lavender a bit naff.

What really sold Room 39 was the Thames view behind the flimsy cotton curtains and French windows, from the decking balcony with a table and four hardwood chairs and umbrella.

The owner is no shrinking violet, as we dine in Strok’s Restaurant and I notice the waiter uses a Strok’s corkscrew to open the wine. It overlooks the river and the five window tables (of which we have one) are all taken. But rather disconcertingly for the Friday night of August Bank Holiday, these are the only tables in use. When the sous-chef, Mads Larsen, comes to see if everything is alright I ask him why there are so few customers. He puts it down to the appalling summer weather. When the sun shines he says the restaurant and terrace for al fresco dining is packed.

Gokhan from Turkey produces a couple of fiery Bloody Marys, and a glass of house Phillipponat champagne (£9.50) comes perfectly chilled. Starters for me, tian of prawn, garlic mussels, sakura leaves and champagne seaweed cream (£9) was a delight of isolated tastes; RA had the bruschetta of goat’s cheese, cherry balsamic and baby fennel salad (£8.50) which was pronounced “mediocre”.

Main courses did not disappoint however – cannon of monkfish (£25) for RA and pan-fried scallops (£25.50) for me with a bottle of reasonably priced Pinot Grigio (£17.50). To finish, a glass of Muscat de Frontignan (£5.50) with my baked lemon cheesecake (£6.50) and RA had the cheese board (£9.50) with a glass of Calem Fine Tawny port (£6).

Breakfast is served until 10.30 on weekdays and a relaxing 11 at the weekends. The Full English contained the biggest porki sausage I have eaten but I couldn’t taste the Drambuie in the porridge. And despite asking for well done toast it came to the table so that I couldn’t hear my knife scratch the surface (my personal test). But these are just quibbles - in all a good hotel and pleasant stay, particularly as guests can use the adjacent Wren’s Club with outdoor Jacuzzi, sauna and gym for free.

There are mixed reviews on TripAdvisor for this hotel with some rating it 1 (the lowest) while others gave it 5 (the highest). It is not surprising, therefore, that the overall rating is 3. Many praised the location, with which I agree, but others were not at all enthusiastic about the rooms (“tired, shabby”) and also that it was not good value for money. All reviews are subjective and personal; our room was great for the reasons stated.

From the 67 reviews on TripAdvisor, it is clear that some rooms have been refurbished while others await the treatment. As for value for money, the hotel will do a deal on the rate, assuming it hasn’t been taken over for a wedding. Parking in Windsor clearly is an issue, so try and get a place in the hotel’s courtyard by making a reservation as you don’t want to lug bags from the municipal car parks nearby. As for the staff being “indifferent” and even “rude”, that was not my experience – so much depends on the “chemistry” between guests and staff. I’ve always found that smiling helps – for both parties.

BOTTOM LINE Room 39 is an Executive Double Room and the so-called rack rate (top wack at busiest time) is £246 per night but if you go online when demand is low you could get the same room for £133 per night. Single Room rack rate is £165 but again generous discounts can be obtained. Breakfast is £9. Parking is very limited and should be booked in advance and costs £10 per night.

NEED TO KNOW Tel 01753-861354; email: reservations@wrensgroup.com; www.sirchristopherwren.co.uk; Strok’s Restaurant bookings 01753-442408.

ACCESS ALL AREAS There are no special amenities for wheelchair uses except ramps.

BEST THING Right on the Thames and next to Eton Bridge, plus use of the facilities in Wren’s Club.

WORST THING Right under the flight path into Heathrow.

ROOM 9 OUT OF 10

FOOD 7 OUT OF 10

SERVICE 8 OUT OF 10

VALUE 8 0UT OF 10

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