Chichester has a lot going for it: a gorgeous 12th-century cathedral, the UK’s largest inland harbour, and a fine chocolate shop – Montezuma’s in East Street. Now it has a smart boutique hotel; the only hotel, in fact, within the old city walls.

The Ship, a Georgian townhouse with Robert Adam interiors, was bought last year by the company that also runs The Place in Camber Sands and the Bell in Sandwich. The hotel is still being renovated but the lobby, with its wonderful Adam staircase, and the bar and brasserie have been Farrow & Balled and decorated in the Noughties uniform of light woods, leather and suede.

It felt relaxed and inviting. Our family room, at the far end of a warren of corridors, was under the eaves, facing a side street (the best rooms overlook North Street). Simply decorated, with a small but pristine bathroom, it had lovely plump beds just begging to be bounced on.

We decided on an early dinner in the brasserie. The Place at The Ship is not as polished as its seaside sibling, but it’s getting there. The Chichester Festival was in full swing and plenty of diners were tucking into the £12.50 two-course menu, along with us, the lone family. The brasserie focuses on local, seasonal and organic produce and it was good, robust stuff – although the chef needs a crash course in how to make a caesar salad.

Catch of the day was fish-cake, which wasn’t quite what I was expecting, but I landed a whopper all the same and it came on a bed of samphire, this year’s vegetable.

Service was slightly off-beam, not surprising since a wedding party occupied one of the function rooms, but well-meaning. One of the waitresses was very sweet with my four-year-old, bribing him with a “special surprise” to eat up his fish and chips (which she delivered later, bringing a packet of biscuits to our room).

After watching a children’s torchlight procession, one of the festival events, swing past beneath our window, we had a comfortable night followed by a great breakfast. Then we checked out in search of the cathedral, five minutes’ walk away – and the chocolate.

Bottom line: Julia Brookes paid £215 for a family room, dinner for four and breakfast. Double rooms start at £120, including breakfast.
Sampling the fare: Brasserie staples using local produce. Excellent children’s menu.
Best thing: The child-friendly waitress.
Worst thing: The caesar salad.
Access all areas: Brasserie, yes; rooms, no.

Need to know:

Ship Hotel, North Street, Chichester, PO19 1NH.
01243 778000
www.ship hotelchichester.co.uk

Room: 8 out of 10.
Food: 7 out of 10.
Service: 8 out of 10.
Value: 8 out of 10.

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