The hotel? The clue’s in the name. This Grade II-listed
building was once Petworth railway station, but has now been restored and
converted into a plush B&B that conjures up the golden age of rail
travel. There are airy rooms in the station itself, but the biggest draw is
the elegant suites in the Pullman carriages either side of the platform.
These carriages have been transformed into six smart and supercomfy ensuite
rooms — just like any other classy hotel room, only more compact (Flora 2 is
the most spacious). Some original features remain — the luggage racks, the
windows and the marquetry, restored by A Dunn & Son, which also worked
on the Titanic and the Orient Express. Antiques and touches such as
suitcases and old radios add to the feeling of nostalgic luxury. If you were
really searching for a downside, it would be the inevitable outdoor route to
the guest lounge in the main building. But it’s hardly a chore, and if
you’re that bothered, you can always have breakfast in your room (with
champagne for an extra £20).
Besides, the 10-second trip to the station building has its own rewards: the
guest lounge and breakfast room are in the former ticket hall, complete with
20ft vaulted ceiling and original ticket windows. The antiquey decor is
reassuringly inviting rather than don’t-touch-the-valuables off-putting,
especially when you’re greeted on arrival with tea and cakes.
The full English is extremely good, but vegetarian and cheese-and-ham options
are on offer if you need a momentary break from tradition. Afterwards, if
you’re not hurrying out, take a look at the photos of the restoration of the
station and carriages, or grab a book from the library round the spiral
staircase.
All sounds very relaxed. What if we feel like exploring? A
five-minute drive away is Petworth, a small market town and an
antiques-lover’s paradise. Dozens of shops sell everything olde, from
classical-style statuary to stuffed dogs on wheels. This is the kind of
place where the houses have names rather than numbers, and with its cobbled
streets and attractive mixture of building styles, it’s all very genteel.
Avoid the distinctly uninspiring Star, the only town-centre pub, and instead
take your breaks in the cafes and tea shops.
Petworth House (01798 342207; closed on Thursdays and Fridays), accessible on
foot, boasts the National Trust’s finest collection of art and sculpture,
with many Turners and Van Dycks. And its Capability Brown-designed grounds
are perfect for a summer stroll. You’ve got 700 acres of deer park to
explore, with wonderful views of the imposing house. The tourist office
(01798 343523), on the town’s Market Square, has 20p leaflets mapping other
local walking routes.
And further afield? Ten miles away, wander round the Weald
and Downland Open Air Museum (01243 811363; £7.50; open daily from 10.30am),
a collection of nearly 50 historic buildings dating from the 13th century to
the 19th. For more ancient interest, head five miles further for Fishbourne
Roman Palace (01243 785859; £5; open daily from 10am).
Or get back on track with a steam-train trip between Kingscote and Sheffield
Park on the Bluebell Railway (01825 722370; from £7 return), about half an
hour away.
After all that, I’m a bit peckish. Is there a dining car? The Old Railway
Station doesn’t do dinner, but Badgers (01798 342651), the pub at the end of
the drive, has an extensive menu of excellent gastropub grub. Expect to pay
about £25 per head for two courses and wine.
Or, for a special occasion, try the wonderful Mediterranean-inspired cuisine
at Gaudi’s (01730 812990), 10 miles away in Midhurst.
Who should go? Anyone nostalgic for stylish rail travel.
Who shouldn’t? Miserable rail commuters who don’t want
to know how lovely it once was.
The Old Railway Station, Petworth, West Sussex (01798 342346, www.old-station.co.uk).
Doubles £66-£140 per night; midweek-break deals available
