This is a gorgeous hotel. It sits in all its black and white, 15th-century glory in a cobbled street of this delightful little town, the mullioned windows twinkling down on Japanese tourists milling about and taking photos.

Check-in was smooth and smiley and the cool corridors and lobby were a welcome respite from the heat outside. Nobody seemed to mind passers-by popping in for a look. There were lots when we visited, admiring the walls painted with kings and queens of England, dropping in to the bar for a swift glass and promising their wives and girlfriends they would be back later to stay the night. “Yes, we will, woman, for goodness sake!”

Our bedroom, Georgina, was spacious, with gilt-framed antique prints and a large bed with an oak headboard carved with cherubs. The door to the immaculate white bathroom had been carved to match the centuries-old wardrobe — a nice touch.

After a peep at the priests’ hole in the bar, we went for drinks in the pretty courtyard, settling down on handsome wrought-iron furniture to admire the inn’s stained-glass windows and exuberant hanging baskets, tumbling with lilac petunias, and created, I discovered, not by some flash garden company but by Anthony, the day porter. Give that man a pay rise.

Dinner in the packed restaurant was a splendid affair. My husband had spotted his favourite meal, poached salmon, on the lunch menu, and I had seen a paella going past at midday. Would it be possible to have these for dinner? It would, indeed — and very nice they were, too. The wine top-ups were prompt and the service faultless.

After coffee and an Amaretto in the panelled drawing room, we went to bed. Unfortunately, outside our room a noisy vent from the kitchens rattled and huffed until midnight, and then started again at 7am. It’s all my fault, of course, because I booked the room at short notice. When we go back — which we will — we will ask for room 16, which has a massive four-poster, or room 5, which is said to be haunted by a lady in a grey crinoline.

MARY GOLD

Bottom line: Mary Gold paid £250 for a superior double, with dinner and breakfast.

Need to know: Mermaid Inn, Mermaid Street, Rye, East Sussex TN31 7EY (01797 223065, www.mermaidinn.com).

Access all areas: sorry, no.

Room: 7 out of 10.

Food: 9 out of 10.

Service: 9 out of 10.

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