Drakes occupies adjoining Regency townhouses on the edge of Kemp Town, just far enough away from the city centre to enjoy the peaceful sea views, but not so far that you'd need a taxi into town (the Lanes are a ten-minute walk away).

The building's history makes for attractive period features such as coving, huge bay windows and fireplaces, but it also makes for a confusing layout - with two distinctive sides to the hotel served by two staircases at the back.

With only 20 bedrooms, it's hard to get lost though, just don't bring too much luggage - there's no lift and magnificent though the period staircase is, it's quite a hike if your room is in the attic.

The reception desk is at one end of the bar, which sums this hotel up nicely - it's all about your archetypal Brighton weekend - mischeivous fun, but minus the tackiness of the pier.

Decor at Drakes is chic, with lots of neutral shades set off by accent of colour and good use made of the afore-mentioned period features.

Check-in was swift and I was pleased to bag one of the hotel's 8 car parking spaces (£12.50 per night) - given on a first come-first served basis. Otherwise it's a nearby multistorey - there's full details on the hotel's website. I was also offered a drink by one of the two barmen, who had diligently been discussing spirits (of the alcoholic kind) when I arrived and looked so eager to get their hands on a cocktail shaker that I felt it cruel to order anything else.

The Bloody Mary delivered to my room ten minute's later was excellent - fresh tomato juice and a good bite - despite the cheeky grin from the barmen I'd managed to resist going for "atomic"... "spicy" was hot enough.

I had a bijou room, which was true to the estate agents' definition - I almost fell over the bed as I walked in the door. That said, clever storage and use of space meant it didn't feel cramped. The centre piece was the huge deep bath in front of the frosted double window.

There was a separate wet room, which had a toilet and good drench shower, but came with a warning - everything in there will get wet if you use the shower - sage advice indeed. The wet room had frosted glass doors that gave a little too much away to the ears and eyes and would test even the most intimate of couples. White Company toiletries were a nice touch though.

The room also had a safe, television with digital channels and DVD player, kettle with good tea and coffee selection and shortbread, still and sparkling water, hairdryer, bathrobes, slippers, and air conditioning. Though effective the heating/air con was noisy and hummed on through the night even when we'd turned it off.

Breakfast was good value for the basic buffet of cereal, fruit, yoghurt, juice and fruit, at £5. Or there was porridge plus the buffet for a total £7.50, £10 for a delicious plate of sauteed mushrooms on toast and £12.50 for smoked salmon with scrambled eggs or a Full English.

Dinner was equally good, and also served in the basement restaurant, where the food made up for the dull surroundings - nice soft lighting and exposed brick but forgettable art and too much grey and beige.

Times recommends

• Travel advice: what to do if your flight is disrupted
• Top 10 unmissable events in 2010
• Seven spa breaks for January