It's easy for country house hotels to get it wrong: imposing façades and hexagonal chimneys count for nothing if the bedrooms are small, the shower curtains plastic and there are sachets of soap that you can open only with your teeth.

Luckily, there is none of this at Gravetye Manor, an Elizabethan house half an hour’s drive from Gatwick airport. Once you hit the crunching gravel drive you escape the rigours of the jet age. You could have stumbled across a remake of Upstairs Downstairs or found yourself in Mandalay on a visit to Rebecca. The staff are welcoming, and fortunately there is no sign of Mrs Danvers. However, the women do wear fetching black uniforms.

On my arrival I was told that I had been upgraded to a larger room. It was the size of a squash court, with a comfortable bed and the television hidden behind a screen so that I didn’t have to watch the England football team.

The leaded windows overlook magnificent gardens that were laid out by Gravetye’s most famous owner, the gardening writer William Robinson. There is even a croquet lawn, and a lake where you can fish for trout in the summer. If I’d had more time, I would have liked to have wandered around and lazed on one of the benches reading Byron’s poetry to someone else’s wife, but it was time for dinner.

Down in the oak-lined drawing room I sat by the fire, enjoyed a whisky softened with water from Gravetye’s own spring, and browsed the menu. There seemed to be nothing on it that I didn’t want to eat. I settled for a pumpkin soup and roast lamb. Then I moved on to more serious matters. The wine list. It has more than 500 bins from all over the world, but I particularly liked the selections from France. I picked out a Bandol, and enjoyed a cracking good dinner. The cheese board was memorable. The chef used to cook for King Hussein of Jordan, so I was half hoping for some hoummos, but that apart, and the Americans at a nearby table who insisted on talking to each other, the evening was perfect.

The next morning I would have liked to have stayed for the full English breakfast, but I had an early morning flight to catch before the restaurant opened. Even so they managed to bring me a good pot of tea, orange juice and toast.

Assuming that the bank manager agrees, and I don’t miss the children, I think I might go and live at Gravetye Manor.



Bottom line: Rupert Wright paid £215 for a double room, £7 for tea and toast, and £43 for dinner.

Need to know: Gravetye Manor (01342 810567, www.gravetyemanor.co.uk), near East Grinstead, West Sussex.

Sampling the fare: Good grub. Nice veggies and fruit from the kitchen garden.

Access all areas: No, though you can get to the restaurant without using steps.

Best thing: Kennels for your labrador.

Worst thing: Being told it’s time to check out.

Room: 9 out of 10.

Food: 8 out of 10.

Service: 8 out of 10.

Value: 8 out of 10.

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