2 for 1 at Pizza Express

Weekend bookings are hard to get at this 400-year-old inn with just eight
rooms in the tweeist of twee wattle and daub villages. It is very popular
with DFLs (Down From Londons) such as us. After months of trying, we settled
for a Thursday night stay. I had planned to go with a friend and had booked
the only twin room. She cancelled and I changed the booking to a double for
my husband and me.
So it was a surprise being shown into the twin. No chance of the last double —
it had been sold an hour before our 8pm arrival. “No one made a note in the
book,” apologised the stud-belted, cowboy-boot-clad receptionist. While we
settled into the wood-beamed restaurant, he scurried upstairs, pushed the
single beds together and laid double sheets.
We slurped G&Ts from tall glasses, clinking with ice and fat pieces of
lemon. A waiter drizzled “superb” (his description) extra virgin olive oil
on to a plate and brought us “superb” (our description) warm, home-baked
foccacia. My steamed razor clams with garlic, parsley and chilli arrived ten
minutes after my husband’s wild garlic and asparagus soup. “We’re not doing
very well with you guys tonight,” fretted the bloke with the belt.
We slept fitfully thanks to a persistent car alarm parked outside our window
in a charmingly wonky room with floors so steep that a glass of water slid
off the bedside table in the night. Twin rooms are invariably the hotel
booby prize — the other rooms, including four in a coach house, looked
better on the website.
While awaiting the full “Fletching Breakfast” we admired the original prints,
stuffed fish and birds and higgledy-piggledy ornaments. “Sorry, we’re
running late with breakfast, we were locked out this morning,” our
Antipodean waitress told us. The Fletching chipolatas were gorgeous and I
asked if there was a village butcher shop. No, she said.
“Hey, isn’t that a butcher shop opposite?” I said as we left the inn. We
rushed in and bought two kilos of chipolatas.
What did we like about the Griffin? The wood-roasted rack of new season’s lamb
blushed pink, with artichokes and cherry tomatoes, makes my mouth water just
imagining it. The beef served to my husband Markus, a thick juicy medallion
smeared with horseradish sauce with wood-roasted red onion and beetroot, was
the best steak he can remember. But the service? Dozy beyond belief.
Bottom line: Jeannette Hyde paid £80 for a twin room.
Sampling the fare: A starter, main course, apéritif and glass
of wine for two people cost £70.
What we think: Great place to dine outside in nice weather.
Best thing: Anything wood-roasted.
Worst thing: Our room.
Access all areas: Yes, in the pub and two coach house rooms.
Need to know: The Griffin Inn (01825 722890, www.thegriffininn.co.uk),
Fletching, near Uckfield, East Sussex.
Room: 4 out of 10.
Food: 8 out of 10.
Service: 4 out of 10.
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