It's not often that the word sunny is used about a hotel, but Ockenden Manor has a sunny feel about it, even on a winter’s day, perhaps especially on a winter’s day — smiling staff, yellow walls, bright oil paintings, huge displays of fresh flowers.

The hotel is essentially an English country house, all clipped box hedges, walled gardens and neat topiary, tucked away behind the high street of a pretty English village.

Checking in was smooth and swift and we were soon in our four-poster bedroom, overlooking the well-kept grounds. The room was tastefully decorated in green and cream, the thick brocade curtains pooling on the floor and the bed piled high with comfortable pillows. There was also a dressing room with his’n’hers wardrobes and a large and immaculate bathroom with a thick carpet — so much nicer than a chilly marble floor.

Room service was on the button, and we enjoyed our pre-dinner drinks in comfy armchairs, overlooking the well-kept gardens, before decamping for dinner.

The oak-panelled dining room was packed, but still managed to sustain a romantic feel, with fresh flowers and candles on the tables. The room was rather hot, but one word to a waiter and a mullioned window was opened swiftly. The service was faultless — wonderful warm bread offered, napkins shaken out and glasses swiftly filled with a French sauvignon blanc.

Ockenden’s chef has a Michelin star and it soon became obvious why. I tucked in to a tomato and goat cheese terrine with pesto, while my husband chose white onion soup with blue cheese rarebit. Both were excellent. Then I had canon of lamb with herb gnocchi, while Harry had the breast of corn-fed chicken with creamed leeks. He can be fussy with his food, but there wasn’t a single murmur of complaint.

We finished our meal with an apple tart (him), a platter of cheese (me) and two glasses of icy-cold Muscat and — I’m sticking my neck out here — agreed that it was the best meal we had eaten in 10 years.

At breakfast the next day, I fell into conversation with a Japanese businessman, who agreed heartily. “Food very good, place very good,” he said. “As you English say, Blabo!” “Er, sorry, Blabo?” He means “Bravo”, said Harry, looking up only momentarily from his eggs Benedict. As I tucked in to my full English breakfast, cooked to order, and looked out across the rolling Sussex countryside, I thought that sounded rather nice. Blabo, indeed, to Ockenden.



Bottom line: Mary Gold paid £260 for a B&B deluxe room. Sampling the fare: Dinner is £46 a head for three courses.

What we think: Well worth the money.

Best thing: The food.

Worst thing: Ugly fire doors into the kitchen.

Access all areas: Steps to bedrooms, but access all other areas.

Need to know: Ockenden Manor, Cuckfield, West Sussex (01444 416111, www.hshotels.co.uk).

Room: 9 out of 10.

Food: 10 out of 10.

Service: 9 out of 10.

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