The Queensberry is a pleasing prospect: a tall, 18th-century house in one of Bath’s most handsome Georgian streets. Inside, however, the aristocratic good looks faded a little, although I suspect that the “superior double” tucked away behind reception wasn’t the best the hotel had to offer.

Room No 5 was all soft browns, beiges and fawns, with square leather-covered pouffes and velvet and faux-fur furnishings. Nothing wrong with that, but I see this kind of moccacino-inspired design in too many American coffee bar chains to be impressed by it. And in a building with such a beautiful Georgian façade, it was an anticlimax — a café latte when you wanted vintage champagne.

Still, it was pleasant, soothing and quiet, with high ceilings, a huge sash window looking on to the terrace, where guests can enjoy a drink in summer, and a big, light-filled white-and-chrome bathroom with decent toiletries from the White Company.

But where were the we’ve-thought-of-everything touches? There was a digital radio and CD-player, but no CDs; a flat-screen TV, but it was small, and didn’t swivel far enough to be viewed from the sofa (and no DVD); bedside reading lights, but these were maddening, spindly contraptions that burnt your fingers when you tried to turn them off.

And of what possible use is a hotel room without a mini-bar? Room service, if you were desperate for a glass of bubbly and a bite, incurred an extra £2.50pp “tray charge”. Ouch. Still, at least the Queensberry has the sense to offer complimentary wi-fi access in its comfortable public sitting rooms.

The hotel does excel at one thing, and that’s the food in its popular restaurant, the Olive Tree. We ate excellent Cornish cod, a beautifully flavoured vegetable tarte tartin, moreish chocolate desserts, and drank a delicious, inexpensive vermentino from a well-explained wine list. The Olive Tree is elegant and convivial, and its staff are welcoming and efficient.

Breakfast was an appetising affair, with cereals, toast, pastries and a sophisticated English fry-up on offer. I just wish the “£6.50” charge mentioned in the room’s information pack hadn’t turned out to be £9 on the day. Extra costs, however small, are annoying. On top of the £190 I paid for a pleasant, if unremarkable, room, I felt I was being squeezed.

The Queensberry is an agreeable hotel run by genial people. But — restaurant aside — it didn’t live up to its prices.

Bottom line: Kate Quill paid £190 for a double room, excluding breakfast (£9pp).

Need to know: Queensberry Hotel (01225 447928, www.thequeensberry.co.uk), Russel Street, Bath BA1.

Sampling the fare: A three-course dinner for two, including wine, was £90.

Access all areas: Rooms available on ground floor, but these are not adapted for disabled users.

Best thing: The restaurant.

Worst thing: Overheated in mild weather.

Room: 6.5 out of 10.

Food: 8 out of 10.

Service: 7 out of 10.

Value: 6 out of 10.

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