The rain is lashing down, yet I can just make out a solitary kite surfer flitting around the choppy seas of Poole Harbour, the second largest natural harbour in the world. I’m standing on the balcony of my hotel room but, even though it’s July, the sun is nowhere to be seen.

I’m told the view is stunning but I have to wait until morning to appreciate the panoramic scene taking in the Purbecks, Brownsea Island and Sandbanks - the spit of sand stretching out into Poole Harbour - said to be the sixth most expensive place to live in the world.

I’m staying in Harbour Heights, the four-star boutique hotel that boasts 38 individually designed contemporary rooms and I’m lucky enough to be in one of the best rooms (207), experiencing the sort of views some rich millionaires enjoy every day. The houses nearby go for around £3.9 million – and that’s a semi.

My spacious room has floor-to-ceiling sliding windows, two armchairs and a good sized bathroom with power shower and bath - ideal for a soak if you've braved outdoor pursuits in the English Channel.

Located on top of a hill, five minutes’ walk from the sea, Harbour Heights is in pole position for a beach break and is also close to the Purbecks, great for mountainbiking or horseriding in stunning scenery. The hotel is affiliated to a watersports centre and can organise windsurfing, kitesurfing, dinghy sailing, scuba diving, kayaking, wakeboarding and even RIB or banana boat rides for those who are speed junkies.

I’ve just dismounted from a gallop over the hills and I’m in need of some sustenance so we head down to the restaurant, packed full of residents and locals even though it’s midweek. Usually guests can dine outside on the terrace where twinkling lights and patio heaters create a Mediterranean atmosphere: tonight we’re inside because of the weather but I can still see the windsurfers soldiering on, catching the last rays of light.

Inside, there’s a large fish tank, modern art and furniture and a grand piano. There’s no live music tonight but service is attentive and the first course arrives quickly. My partner tucks into seared scallops with roast cauliflower puree, smoked bacon, garlic and herb butter (£9.95). I just wished there were more than three so that I could steal one. My grilled New Forest Petit Crottin goats cheese (£8.10) perches on a bramley apple puree amidst scattered beetroot pieces and hazelnut salad. Divine.

For the main course I find my baked fillet of wild sea bass (£19.90) is perfectly cooked. I don’t eat meat but my husband assures me the rack of lamb (£19.90) is exquisite. We think the prices are a little high - side dishes aren’t included and the wine list starts at around £21 a bottle. We opt for a Sangiovese from the friendly sommelier’s home region in Italy and end up ordering another bottle… So it's a surprise that I can remember what dessert is like, but when we cut open the hot praline and chocolate pudding (£7.85) and the chocolate oozes out, it’s each man for himself as our forks battle it out.

My husband manages a grappa before we stumble upstairs. He’s tempted by the well-stocked minibar but after adjusting the air conditioning (which works a dream but isn’t needed on such a cold summer’s night) I dive into bed. The mattress is perfect but I wish I could say the same for the pillows. I find spares in the wardrobe but still end up spending the night wishing I’d brought my own.

Morning arrives and at last some sun and the opportunity to enjoy the panoramic views of Poole Harbour. The lone kite surfer has gone, perhaps chased away by the large ferry on its way from France rounding the bend for the final stretch home. We loiter on our balcony enjoying the views. Not all the rooms have sea views and only five have fully fledged balconies, so splash out on one if you can. After a quick power shower (the toiletries are luxurious - especially the body scrub) we head down to breakfast and feast on smoked salmon and scrambled eggs and a continental buffet filled with croissants, fresh fruit and yoghurts. We could sit here all day, but we don’t want to miss the elusive sun, and head down the hill for a bracing walk along the beach and a sneaky peak at millionaires’ row arguing over which one we’d buy if we had a few million to spare.

Tripadvisor.com gives Harbour Heights an average rating of 3 out of 5. The majority of guests were overjoyed with the view, the rooms and cleanliness of the hotel, but a couple of guests experienced poor service and, having spoken to some local guests who often dine here, it seems it’s sometimes haphazard at weekends during peak season.

Most guests aren’t bothered with the fact that there aren’t many facilities and why should you be? With the ocean and the Purbecks’ playground on your doorstep, who needs a gym or swimming pool?

The reason Harbour Heights seems not to score higher appears to be value for money. While the rooms are "comfortable and clean" they’re not "out of this world" for £125pp and don’t contain any fancy fitting such as flat screen TVs, king size beds or giant bathtubs.

However, don’t let this put you off. If you have the money to spend or get a special deal, my advice would be to snap it up quick and you won’t be disappointed. Not only is the food incredible but the view, rather than the price, is the lasting memory in my mind.

Bottom line: Non-sea views from £125pp; sea views from £145pp, sea view with balcony from £150 per person (including breakfast). Some seasonal offers available.

Need to know: Harbour Heights, Haven Road, Sandbanks, Poole, Dorset BH13 7LW. Tel: 0845 337 1550 (reservations) or 01202 707272 to talk a member of staff; Email: enquiries@harbourheights.net; www.fjbhotels.co.uk

Access to all areas: One-third of the hotel bedrooms have disabled access. But they are not disabled-proof. For example they don’t have bars to assist in the bathroom, so a disabled person may need assistance with the washing facilities. The public areas do have disabled access, via ramps and a specific disabled toilet.

Best thing: The views from the bedrooms and the garden terrace bar and restaurant.

Worst thing: The pillows…

Room: 8 out of 10

Food: 9 out of 10

Service: 8 out of 10

Value: 7 out of 10

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