As we pulled up outside the handsome, curving, creamy cake of a Regency house, just outside Taunton, I was transported back ten years. Then, I had been a nervous bride for all of half an hour, draped in ivory silk and anxious to hit the champagne. Later that day, we would eat duck and boogie drunkenly to the corny sounds of a local DJ. It was the best day of my life. Could a repeat visit possibly live up to expectations?

Almost, yes. The chintzily elegant interior has not faded in its small-scale grandeur (there are only 11 bedrooms). This is a place to relax and luxuriate, to dress for dinner, and to play the country squire.

“We only seem to have a booking for two. Would you like us to put a cot in the room?” asked the smiling receptionist, as we bounced in with five-year-old Rosa, who would later be deposited with grandparents for the night. Top marks for not being sniffy.

We were upgraded to the Ashill suite (suites are named after Somerset villages), which had a four-poster that you needed a ladder for, three large windows looking out on to emerald hills, and a gigantic bath-room dominated by a sunken bath for two. Obviously, we jumped in the bath, slapping on the Molton Brown goodies.

Mount Somerset Hotel, Taunton, Somerset

This is a place to relax and luxuriate, to dress for dinner, and to play the country squire

BACKGROUND

• The Old Cider House, Nether Stowey, Somerset

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And thus to the only scar on our visit: the bath emptied very slowly. Half an hour later, in high heels and satin dress, I was still sloshing water around the sides to hurry it along.

We were the only diners in the two-AA-rosette restaurant, a fact for which a young waitress apologised. After aperitifs on the patio, I chose scallops to start, garnished with an oversweet mango dressing, while my husband, Tom, enjoyed a delicious chicken sausage with truffle oil. My main was a disappointing fish risotto with bitter-tasting pak choi, his a fine lamb in wine jus. All was redeemed with our pudding plates, their borders decorated with “Happy Anniversary” swirled in chocolate. Naturally, I scraped mine off and ate it, along with a moreish liquorice ice-cream.

Then, Assam tea and scrumptious petit-fours in the plumped-up drawing room, before returning to our suite.

Bottom line: Anjana Ahuja paid £229 half board for two.
Sampling the fare: A classy breakfast, including fresh croissants and black pudding. Dinner is overpriced at £32.50 for two courses, or £39.50 for three, excluding wine.
What we think: Good for traditionalists who want a luxury weekend break.
Worst thing: The blocked plughole.
Best thing: Young, smiling staff.
Access all areas: Disabled access to ground floor, but first-floor bedrooms are not suitable for wheelchair users.

Need to know:
The Mount Somerset, Lower Henlade, Taunton, Somerset TA3 5NB
01823 442500
www.mountsomersethotel.co.uk

Value: 7 out of 10.
Room: 8 out of 10.
Food: 7 out of 10.
Service: 10 out of 10.

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