A warning: in no circumstances stay at Dorian House if you are in any way irritated by classical music. The co-owner Tim Hugh is principal cellist with the London Symphony Orchestra, and this upmarket Bath B&B is a four-storey monument to his day job.

Tim Hugh recordings, available for purchase, play in the breakfast room. Each of the 11 bedrooms is named after a composer or musician (ours was Grieg), and you will find a spectacularly sickly chocolate bearing a picture of Mozart on your pillow on arrival.

As themes go, it is hardly the subtlest. But forgive him his obsessions, for as well as being an excellent cellist Hugh runs a top-class establishment. Dorian House is a homely Victorian mansion ten minutes’ walk from the centre of Bath.

Our room was tastefully decorated, with heavy wooden furniture, an enormous bed and a gratifyingly deep bathtub in a sparkling bathroom. We were on the top floor, and the ceiling on one side of our room was so low that I had to roll my inelegant way across the bed before standing, but this was infinitely preferable to some characterless box-shaped bedroom in a more modern setting.

Some of the more expensive rooms have oak four-posters and presumably higher walls, but for less than £100 a night you can’t have everything. Breakfast was excellent. With such an extensive self-service buffet to gorge on first, including fruit, yoghurt, cereal, mini-pastries and cheese, I would have liked slightly longer before being asked make my selection from the hot menu.

My gluttony is hardly their problem, but if breakfast lasted longer than an hour (8.30am- 9.30am), the waitresses might have been able to take things a little easier. They probably saved me from myself, however, because the hot food was delicious, with eggs Benedict and smoked salmon and scrambled eggs to choose from as well as the ubiquitous full English. You’ll have to take the boyfriend’s word for it, but the black pudding is apparently exceptional.

A number of thoughtful touches make Dorian House an excellent discovery. There is an elegant living room for guests’ use, complete with restaurant menus and visitor guides, and an open fireplace that must be glorious in winter. A therapist can be booked to provide aromatherapy massages in your room. There is plenty of space for parking, and although checkout is by 10.30am, they are happy to store luggage while you spend the day exploring the town.

Bottom line: Fran Yeoman paid £95 a night for a double room, including breakfast.

What we think: A great base for a weekend away.

Best thing: Breakfast.

Worst thing: Having to be downstairs by 9.30am on a Sunday to eat it.

Need to know: Dorian House (01225 426336, www.dorianhouse.co.uk), 1 Upper Oldfield Park, Bath BA2.

Access all areas: No — lots of steps, inside and out.

Food: 8 out of 10.

Room: 8 out of 10

Service: 7 out of 10.

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The grandeur may be a little faded, but the food and spa still impresses Lucy Tobin

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A disappointing breakfast was more than made up for by the evening meal and spa

BACKGROUND

• Homewood Park, Hinton Charterhouse, Bath

• Lucknam Park Hotel, Colerne, Bath

• Dorian House, Bath

• The Queensberry, Bath

• Milsoms Hotel, Bath

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