The hotel: Don’t tell me — on a harbour? You guessed it. At the end of
a row of colourful Georgian houses on Cardigan Bay, the hotel was built as a
harbourmaster’s house. Great views were a requirement for his work — now
they add to the hotel’s gentle appeal. All seven rooms (named after locally
built ships) overlook the harbour, the coastline, or both.
When Glyn and Menna Heulyn opened the hotel last year, they brought it out of
its mock-Tudor-beams-and-sticky-carpet mummification. Now the place is
lovely — all tasteful, light decor complemented by ori- ginal features such
as the listed spiral staircase and the Welsh slate masonry.
Soundproofing wasn’t one of the original features, so if you plan to head for
your supremely comfortable bed before the bar shuts, go for a room on one of
the higher floors. Splash out on Madona, the suite at the top of the house,
with the best panoramic views and the best bathroom (freestanding roll-top
bath and fantastically powerful shower). If you’re taking kids, go for one
of a large double with adjoining single. Each room is individually designed,
with subtle Welsh touches: slate placemats, Ty Nant mineral water and
locally made aromatherapy soap. All have split shutters rather than curtains
— which means you can keep that fishingboat-bobbing sea in clear sight and
still preserve your modesty.
Downstairs, in the panelled, pine-and-leather bar and restaurant area, the
friendly staff and garrulous locals keep the atmosphere convivial. In
keeping with the hotel, the excellent food is modern but substantial, with
more than a few nods to national pride. Ingredients are sourced locally
whenever possible — so expect lots of seafood, Welsh black beef and lamb,
organic vegetables and Cerwyn goats’ cheese, as well as laver bread with the
full Welsh breakfast.
What’s the village like? To begin at the beginning:
Aberaeron and its harbour were planned and built in the early 19th century
by the Rev Alban Gwynne. As such, it has a pleasingly uniform prettiness,
especially when sunset’s doing its thing with the multicoloured houses. In a
less familiar part of Wales, it’s a fairly sleepy place: there are a few
pubs and tea shops, but some (particularly the Black Lion) are definitely
local boozers for local people.
A few yards from the hotel is Aberaeron Craft Centre, a collection of farm
buildings that have been converted into workshops. If this gives you a taste
for local arts and crafts, go and throw a pot or two at the Crochendy
Llanarth Pottery (01545 580584) three miles south of Aberaeron. Less
hands-on is the Rhiannon Gold workshop, half an hour away in Tregaron (01974
298415), where craftsmen create Celtic designs in Welsh gold.
We fancy stretching our legs. No problem — Aberaeron makes a
good base for walks. North and south you have the picturesque Ceredigion
coastal path; or follow the River Aeron three miles up the valley to
Llanerchaeron. The 18th-century house, designed by John Nash, has a large
estate that’s perfect for a wander (01545 570200; free), but the house and
gardens are closed for winter. On Dec-ember 7, there’s a Christmas Food and
Craft Fair.
So is there a Dylan Thomas connection? This is his neck of
the (hunched, courters’-and- rabbits’) woods. Nearby New Quay contests
Laugharne’s claim to be the model for Llareggub. Pick up a leaflet from the
tourist office next to the Harbourmaster if you want to follow the Dylan
Thomas Trail. It recommends a couple of pubs for lunch, as well as a visit
to the public toilets (once the lifeboat station, apparently). The wide,
sandy beach here is popular in the summer, but for something smaller and
more dramatic for a winter stroll, head a few miles southwest to Llangranog
and Tresaith.
Who should go? Anyone who knows there’s more to Wales than
valleys and mountains.
Who shouldn’t? Anyone who presents The Weakest Link.
Harbourmaster Hotel, Pen Cei, Aberaeron, Ceredigion (01545 570755,
www.harbour-master.com). Singles from £45, doubles from £75, Madona suite
£90 (minimum two-night stay), all B&B
