You may think that the Alps or even the Rockies have it all but nothing can
quite match the enchanting, mystical slopes of Lapland and the rest of
northern Finland. There are breathtaking landscapes in this part of the
Arctic Circle, the Northern Lights and, of course, Santa Claus.
A handful of resorts are worth trying, all offering safe skiing and dreamy
frozen scenery beneath Arctic blue polar skies. First is Yllas, the largest
downhill ski area, which sits serenely at the southern edge of Lapland’s
highest fell (what they call their mountains) and boasts Finland’s highest
mountain restaurant, at a mere 718m (2,355ft).
Levi is another purpose-built resort and is probably the country’s best
known, having hosted a number of World Cup ski events. It has a charming
town centre with excellent shops, where you can pick up Finnish knickknacks
such as toasty blankets, reindeer-shaped soaps and lamp bases made of
antlers.
The skiing at both is leisurely rather than demanding: Finland is not a
destination for the gnarly off-pister but more for the beginner or cautious
intermediate with a young family in tow. In fact, the country’s gently
rolling terrain, punctuated by the occasional treeless hill, is best suited
to cross-country skiing and only light downhilling. Even the black runs are
benign and unchallenging.
It is this infinitely white, silent landscape that charms, however. While you
may not be able to hurtle down it endlessly at speed, it lends itself to all
sorts of diverting Arctic pursuits such as snowmobile safaris under the
stars, visiting husky farms and dog sledding. You can even fish for your
supper through the ice or visit reindeer farms, where huge herds of Rudolphs
roam across the wilderness.
There are disadvantages to being so far north, of course. The cold, for one.
It was minus 30C when I went in early December and frequently it can be well
below zero, although it warms up slightly on the slopes compared with the
valleys. The other drawback is that for about two months in midwinter there
is limited daylight, so you have to ski in a rather strange, twilight world.
All the slopes have floodlighting but it lends a rather eerie quality to the
mountain.
Food, while good, is not exactly gourmet: I was offered the same staple
reindeer casserole with mashed potatoes and lingonberry sauce combination at
most restaurants. There are few mountain eateries because the bottom of the
slopes and the valley facilities are never very far away.
This is also Santa Claus country and there is a refreshingly untouristy Santa
Village 20 minutes from Levi, where you can tour his wooden cabin, meet his
reindeer and see his elves busily at work in the toy factory.
Perhaps the biggest attraction, however, is the aurora borealis, or Northern
Lights. This extraordinary natural light show takes place on clear nights
between November and February and, if you catch it, takes your breath away.
We were enjoying a traditional Lapp supper when someone frantically announced
that they could see the lights outside the restaurant. Everyone ran out and
stood in wonder, looking up at the bright colours being beamed softly across
the night sky. Several of us sank back into a giant snowdrift and lay there,
overawed by the spectacle. Magical.
